originalrider41
New member
When pulling someone out how bad is jerking the strap? Does it damage the frame, bumper, whatever your attached to when done reasonable? Does a recovery strap vs a tow strap really make that much of a difference?
recovery
- Thread starter originalrider41
- Start date
oldschoolcj7
New member
Most people are familiar with tow straps when it comes to pulling your vehicle out of a trouble location and onto safer grounds, by which time hopefully a tow truck arrives to help you. One of the primary reasons to not choose tow straps is associated with the hooks attached on either ends of the strap. Imaging the following scenario -
Your vehicle breaks down and you manage to stop at the side of the highway out of harms way. After this, you either contact a friend living nearby or if you're lucky enough, a stranger driving by offers to help you out. You then proceed to take out your trusty tow strap from the trunk of your car and attach both hooks to the front of your vehicle and the back of the stranger's vehicle. The stranger then begins to pull you and your car, steadily at first. So far so good, you say to yourself. You're pulled back onto the road and both of you are traveling along at a sensible and constant speed. Without warning, either the strap itself breaks due to some defect in the hardware or because it was improperly secured. The hook (made out of metal) will go flying at speeds sometimes in excess of 60mph.
As you can see, it may not be very safe to use tow straps. There have been cases where people have been seriously injured or even killed as a result of incidents much like that described above. Tow straps do not stretch and won't have much give.
Now, in the case of recovery straps, they do not have hooks at all on the ends. Instead, they are just a long flat length of nylon with sewn loops on either ends. Also they stretch so they actually behave like a rubber band, returning to its normal length when there is no tension. This is definitely a much safer option. There are recovery straps in a range of length and width. You can get straps from 20 feet long all the way up 40 feet long. Widths can vary from 2 inches up to 6 inches. The width of the strap affects its elasticity (or ability to stretch basically). The wider the strap, the less elastic it becomes. Generally speaking, as you go up in the width, the heavier the vehicle you can tow - each inch in the width allows you to pull approximately an additional 10,000 lb
Your vehicle breaks down and you manage to stop at the side of the highway out of harms way. After this, you either contact a friend living nearby or if you're lucky enough, a stranger driving by offers to help you out. You then proceed to take out your trusty tow strap from the trunk of your car and attach both hooks to the front of your vehicle and the back of the stranger's vehicle. The stranger then begins to pull you and your car, steadily at first. So far so good, you say to yourself. You're pulled back onto the road and both of you are traveling along at a sensible and constant speed. Without warning, either the strap itself breaks due to some defect in the hardware or because it was improperly secured. The hook (made out of metal) will go flying at speeds sometimes in excess of 60mph.
As you can see, it may not be very safe to use tow straps. There have been cases where people have been seriously injured or even killed as a result of incidents much like that described above. Tow straps do not stretch and won't have much give.
Now, in the case of recovery straps, they do not have hooks at all on the ends. Instead, they are just a long flat length of nylon with sewn loops on either ends. Also they stretch so they actually behave like a rubber band, returning to its normal length when there is no tension. This is definitely a much safer option. There are recovery straps in a range of length and width. You can get straps from 20 feet long all the way up 40 feet long. Widths can vary from 2 inches up to 6 inches. The width of the strap affects its elasticity (or ability to stretch basically). The wider the strap, the less elastic it becomes. Generally speaking, as you go up in the width, the heavier the vehicle you can tow - each inch in the width allows you to pull approximately an additional 10,000 lb
FirstJeep4Me
New member
Wow, I never thought about the tow strap breaking. I am gonna have to get some recovery straps now. I really don't want someone to get hit in the head with my tow strap breaking. Thanks oldschoolcj7
Crazy4diesels
New member
Broke a heavy chain once using an old Ford L8000 truck to pull down a big tree (well, to TRY to pull down a big tree) . We did not jerk the chain. The truck was pulling slow and steady. The failure point was where the hook was hooked back onto the chain - it actually looks like it sheared the link off. The amount of force and speed imparted into the freed end of the chain was VERY VERY scary. "Killed" would not be the word if you had been standing near the chain. Gave us a whole new respect for things under great tension. When towing, pulling, winching, etc stay AWAY from the things in tension -John
jfrabat
New member
As far as I know, the recovery strap is the one you use with the winch, as it is not elastic; the tow strap has SOME elasticity, which means the impact will be less and there will be a little added force to help pull you out of a sticky situation. When whinching, since the speed of the winch is MUCH slower, you dont want to any stretching of the line (plus, if you wrap it around a tree, any stretching would cause damage to the tree).
I have seen both come with hooks, and, in fact, I got a tow strap for free with hooks when I went to the opening of a 4WheelParts store, and what I did is that I cut the hooks and now use it with my trusty D-Rings. Much safer to do it that way.
I have seen both come with hooks, and, in fact, I got a tow strap for free with hooks when I went to the opening of a 4WheelParts store, and what I did is that I cut the hooks and now use it with my trusty D-Rings. Much safer to do it that way.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
IMO a tow strap will not stretch much, designed more for moving a load for a distance. A recovery strap will stretch, hence being used during a 'recovery'.
Do not jerk a tow strap, they're not designed to stretch and you are more likely to break/damage parts. Recovery straps are designed to be jerked after putting a little slack in the strap, the rebound actually exerts more force on the stuck vehicle and aids in the recovery.
Do not jerk a tow strap, they're not designed to stretch and you are more likely to break/damage parts. Recovery straps are designed to be jerked after putting a little slack in the strap, the rebound actually exerts more force on the stuck vehicle and aids in the recovery.
glenn beck
New member
depends what you are stuck in. we dont use straps in the mud as none of them have enoght stretch and the pull truck needed to get a running start as they have very little traction to start with. i have a 3" 60 foot rope that works great for snatching as it stretchs at least 10 feet so its a smooth jerk. i have seen some people use bags that hang over the rope every 15 feet that they fill with water so if the rope snaps it takes the ping out of it. i have seen trucks badly damadged from straps and chains including ripping the bumper off including part of the rear frame rails.
bobcat481
New member
IMO....ANYTHING.....no matter what it is, towing strap or recovery strap, is better than a chain. What ever you use, make sure it is not a chain. If it is straps of sorts, make sure to stay clear of hooks, and don't rig up to recievers (Reese Hitch). Throw a floor mat or two (hence Glenn Beck's water bags) on the strap, and HOPE all is well. Litterly TONS of pressure is at hand here, and when things go wrong, they go wrong quick. Faster than you could ever think of moving.
oldschoolcj7
New member
Very very true and not pretty when things go wrong!!!
jfrabat
New member
originalrider41
New member
I understand flying hooks from tow straps are dangerous but shouldn't a recovery strap be more dangerous since it is elastic and IS like a rubber band and WILL snap back toward you with more force than if a tow strap breaks and snaps back?
Also if were concerned with straps breaking won't the hooks stay on the vehicles or do they usually decide to go flying also?
I like the idea of some sandbags or waterbags as line dampeners tho
Also if were concerned with straps breaking won't the hooks stay on the vehicles or do they usually decide to go flying also?
I like the idea of some sandbags or waterbags as line dampeners tho
jfrabat
New member
Hooks are not as secure as D-Rings; they can come loose, and they become very dangerous. I always use the D-Ring shackles when using straps... As for the straps themselves, they ARE dangerous, regardless if they are tow straps or recovery straps, or chains, or even winch cable, and should be handled accordingly.
phall92139
New member
So, to sum this up (because I got a little confused reading through this thread), we have basically two types of straps: (1) Tow straps, and (2) Recovery/Snatch straps. They are kind of like talking about apples and oranges. The essential difference between the two is how they perform under load.
Tow Straps: Polyester doesn't stretch much, typically 2-3% at 100% tug. Pulls are predictable and safer since it doesn't stretch, there is no stored kinetic energy or recoil, meaning there's nothing to snap back if something breaks. Polyester straps are the tool when you need a slow, exact extraction. A good example would be when pulling a rig in the rocks, when the pulling vehicle has traction and can creep. Think of a Tow Strap working like a chain, only safer. Another characteristic is that polyester can survive towing a vehicle for some distance. Polyester straps typically only stretch 2-3% per 30-foot at full capacity. Tree-Savers are also made like these straps.
Recovery/Snatch Straps: Nylon has a natural elasticity and is not braided but bundled to allow stretch without twist. It works like a big rubber band and its resilience is what permits the pulling vehicle to gain momentum to aid in the extraction. Unfortunately, along with this stored energy and comes some risk. With Nylon as the main ingredient, the elasticity built into a snatch-strap allows the tow rig to get a running start without the sudden, sharp snap of Tow strap. This is important to not damaging things like frames, bumpers and other tow-points, as well as keeping the tow rig from getting stuck. Be forewarned though, that same ability to stretch and recoil makes the Snatch strap a potential killer if used improperly. These straps work best when traction is poor, such as in sand, loose gravel, ice, mud, or snow. A Snatch strap also works better for low-power rigs that don’t have the ponies and/or torque to pull from a standstill.
Polyester Tow Ropes of the appropriate diameter and length, as well as some of the new Hybrid Straps (combo Poly/Nylon) also work well.
Chains have their place. When I'm wheeling by myself with only large boulders to use as anchor points, I'd much rather cinch with my chain and let it take the abrasion rather than a strap. On the down-side, they are heavy and have a rather limited work load. The 20' of 3/8" Grade 70 Transport Chain w/Clevis Grab Hooks I carry in my gear weighs 2 lbs. per foot and has a work load limit of only 6,600 lbs. You could step up to the same size Grade 80 Alloy Chain, save 1/2 lb. per foot in weight and increase the work load limit to 7,100 lbs., but you also go from $3.40 to $7.70 per foot in cost.
Hardware: My recommendation is to buy quality, American-made hardware. All of my Bow Shackles are made by Crosby Group (Home), and my chain is from Campbell® Chain. There are a lot of other good sources for hardware but beware of junk forged in off-shore furnaces.
Additionally:
Tow Straps: Polyester doesn't stretch much, typically 2-3% at 100% tug. Pulls are predictable and safer since it doesn't stretch, there is no stored kinetic energy or recoil, meaning there's nothing to snap back if something breaks. Polyester straps are the tool when you need a slow, exact extraction. A good example would be when pulling a rig in the rocks, when the pulling vehicle has traction and can creep. Think of a Tow Strap working like a chain, only safer. Another characteristic is that polyester can survive towing a vehicle for some distance. Polyester straps typically only stretch 2-3% per 30-foot at full capacity. Tree-Savers are also made like these straps.
Recovery/Snatch Straps: Nylon has a natural elasticity and is not braided but bundled to allow stretch without twist. It works like a big rubber band and its resilience is what permits the pulling vehicle to gain momentum to aid in the extraction. Unfortunately, along with this stored energy and comes some risk. With Nylon as the main ingredient, the elasticity built into a snatch-strap allows the tow rig to get a running start without the sudden, sharp snap of Tow strap. This is important to not damaging things like frames, bumpers and other tow-points, as well as keeping the tow rig from getting stuck. Be forewarned though, that same ability to stretch and recoil makes the Snatch strap a potential killer if used improperly. These straps work best when traction is poor, such as in sand, loose gravel, ice, mud, or snow. A Snatch strap also works better for low-power rigs that don’t have the ponies and/or torque to pull from a standstill.
Polyester Tow Ropes of the appropriate diameter and length, as well as some of the new Hybrid Straps (combo Poly/Nylon) also work well.
Chains have their place. When I'm wheeling by myself with only large boulders to use as anchor points, I'd much rather cinch with my chain and let it take the abrasion rather than a strap. On the down-side, they are heavy and have a rather limited work load. The 20' of 3/8" Grade 70 Transport Chain w/Clevis Grab Hooks I carry in my gear weighs 2 lbs. per foot and has a work load limit of only 6,600 lbs. You could step up to the same size Grade 80 Alloy Chain, save 1/2 lb. per foot in weight and increase the work load limit to 7,100 lbs., but you also go from $3.40 to $7.70 per foot in cost.
Hardware: My recommendation is to buy quality, American-made hardware. All of my Bow Shackles are made by Crosby Group (Home), and my chain is from Campbell® Chain. There are a lot of other good sources for hardware but beware of junk forged in off-shore furnaces.
Additionally:
- Stay away from hooks on straps because they have a bad habit of coming off their attaching point. Not such a big deal with Poly straps but a lethal weapon with Nylon straps.
- Never connect two straps together with D-rings or shackles.
- Never use a trailer ball hitch point as a tie off. They are not designed for that kind of a horizontal pull and fall into the same category as hooks if they fail and come loose. One article that I read said that, "Ideally, all tow-points need to be like an “O,†“D†or “P†shape, and not a “J†or “C†or “G.†shape."
Last edited:
Similar threads
