Saving up for a Jeep, which one should I get? Cj, Tj, or Yj

[TRyanDrew]

Hello everyone. My name is Drew and I'm saving up for a Jeep Wrangler. I decided to get a Jeep because my Uncle has a 1997 Tj (Manual). I love riding in the jeep and driving it too. I'm just torn on what kind of Jeep to get. I like the Classic look of the Cjs, but am afraid of their 3-speed and 4-cylinders. I like the body of the Yj and the roll bars, but HATE the lights and front of the Yj. And the Tj looks great and has the same type of body as the Yj, but I don't like the roll bars. And the Tj looks so good that it makes me want the origional Cj. So as you can see I am really torn. Also my Uncle was telling me about leaf vs coils, and the cylinder size. And one more thing, I don't like the new Jks though. I do plan on up-graded almost everything on the jeep I choose. Any and every bit of advice is great! Thanks for the time! -Drew

 

[superj]

do you have to meet emissions testing in your area?

what are you going to be doing with the jeep 90% of the time?

i have a cj5, a yj, and the wife has a jk. the jk is ok but your arms get sore on long drives because everything is so square in the interior. i cannot find a comfortable spot to put my elbows and my hands. my yj is my favorite. i love it. its comfortable and dependable and everyone recognizes it easily because it is the first wrangler and the only model to have the square lights. the cj5 is very spartan. no creature comforts at all. you can only run a half bikini because the roll bars in the old cjs don;t cover the back seat so if you are going to have people in the back, they will get sunburned.

the cj has the best dash set up though.

 

[yo momma yj]

>I like the Classic look of the Cjs, but am afraid of their 3-speed and 4-cylinders.

hmmm...that seems oddly amusing,
when the military wanted a utility vehicle to fight wars, that's the spec they wrote. Maybe your individual tastes wander astray from serious minded people who have to retrieve bodies off the field.

>I like the body of the Yj and the roll bars, but HATE the lights and front of the Yj. And the Tj looks great and has the same type of body as the Yj, but I don't like the roll bars. And the Tj looks so good that it makes me want the origional Cj. So as you can see I am really torn. Also my Uncle was telling me about leaf vs coils, and the cylinder size. And one more thing, I don't like the new Jks though.


>I do plan on up-graded almost everything on the jeep I choose. Any and every bit of advice is great! Thanks for the time! -Drew[/QUOTE]

maybe you could just buy a Chevy and change everything into a Jeep?

Here's the skinny on Jeeps.
they were designed correctly at the beginning for the intended purpose.

 

[69jeepcj]

If you are not very mechanically inclined I would not recommend a cj for your first jeep. They are awesome jeeps but they haven't been built in 27 years and you are bound to have repairs, some beyond just engine repair, and they ride rougher. The 80,s 4 cyl jeep engine is a very fine little engine, very dependable, they just wont quit, but they do lack power. I would suggest a YJ for cost, comfort, plus you can put a CJ front end on it, hood fenders and grill. You could also go further and put a cj flat dash in it and ditch the goofy Yj dash. Nothing wrong with a tj either, they are just newer and prices reflect.

 

[TrailRatedRN]

As a TJ owner, I must say I love the TJs. I also do not like the look of the YJ square headlights. I think CJ's look amazing, but I do not have the level of skill to cope with the expected mechanical failures and have no intention of taking my jeep to a shop regularly. Will you be modifying your jeep just because you like the look, or because you intend to use it? Each Jeep comes with its unique set of difficulties. Modifications can be made to create the jeep that is perfect for you. For example, stock TJ's have weak axles, but you can install stronger ones to your liking. Pick the body and interior that you like the look and feel of the best and expect to spend plenty of time in the garage modifying it, and repairing it if you use it as intended.

 

[Turbogus]

As for me, it seems that the earlier the Jeep (or any other rig) the easier they are to work on (lacking computer controlled devices and the like). On the downside, if you live in a Consumer Desert as I do, finding parts/knowledge is difficult on a local level. Thanks internet, for killing local Mom and Pop shops like Mac's Jeeparts, 9th Street A.P., Corvallis Auto Supply, etc. out our way. :razz:

 

[69jeepcj]

^ this is very true! any jeep earlier than 1980 will be all non computer and much easier to trouble shoot problems. This is the #1 reason I drive 80 and under jeeps, I don't want some computer sensor or fuel injector leaving me stranded on the trail (this happened to my brother in his 89 Yj on a wheeling trip to another state, half a day later it was running). Nothing wrong with the 80,s models, they just have miles of vac lines and the carb sucks.

 

[Brian Z]

I have a YJ, and by what you wrote, thats what you would like minus the front end, those are changeable. Im rebuilding mine little by little, and its a project no matter what you buy. Good luck.

 

[J Smith]

The first thing you want to do is answer this question: Where am I going to drive it most? You must know this before making any serious decisions about what Jeep to buy. If you're only going to the mall, it's not going to matter a lot.
If you are planning some serious 4-wheeling, then you may want to think about this: Is the newer technology going to be better or not? My answer after 40+ years of wheeling is "YES". I have owned and driven about any level of Jeep with the exception of buggies. You can do more with less money with the TJ and JK and their coil suspension. If I were looking for the best option and could afford one, I would go with an older JK Rubicon. The mid-length control arms give you the best bang for your buck in traction and ride, which as you age a little will mean a lot. You start off with an extremely good stock rig with lockers and D44s. You will get much better mileage... which will make paying for some upgrades easier.
The TJ Rubicon would be my second choice. Same arguments except for the mpg.
The CJs and even the YJs are getting harder to find parts for and some years of the YJs you will want to avoid because of the Fuel Injection system that is an expensive failure looking for a place to happen.
You don't show where you live, but that would make choices different for me as well. East of the Mississippi, I wouldn't consider a CJ or a YJ unless the whole running gear was going to be upgraded right away. Mud and rocks are just too hard on the axles and gears. You want the better axles if you can afford them any time. Especially if you plan to go to bigger tires... and who doesn't?
Start with a Rubicon and you've already got a good platform that will go where you point it in its stock condition. You can improve them, but the cost won't be as bad unless you plan to spend a lot. Then go with whatever cheap model you can get with the running gear (engine, trans, transfer case) you want. Find the axles and gears you want and plug them in and you can go pretty much anywhere you want.
Happy Trails

 

[jps4jeep]

I do and have owned all the jeeps you have listed and my opinion is to find (depending on where in the rust belt you live) a 92-95 YJ with a 4.0 and AX15. Still have the reliablility of MPI. Simpler and cheaper to work on (both mod and maintain), will require way less work than a CJ to maintain as a daily driver. IMHO the best frame out of all the other jeeps. TJ frames, even on ones from the mid 2000's will rot out around the control arms. Bodies are galvinized and will generally not rust as bad a as CJ.

The biggest cown side of the YJ is the D35 rear. If you have no intentions on wheeling, wouldn't worry about it. If you are, a 8.8 swap is pretty cheap.

 

[jfrabat]

I second JPS4JEEP's advice; I got the YJ for exactly the reasons he mentions, and I do not regret it at all!

 

[joeylead]

I have owned both a yj and tj that were similary built. the YJ had a rubicon express extreme duty 4.5 lift on 33" goodyear mtr's anf the Tj had a 4" rough countryl lift and had 33" procomp mt's when i got it. The yj is a much simpler vehicle and for just wheeling, i would choose it. but if this is going to be a daily driver, for me the tj is a clear choice. even with a much better quality suspension sustem on it, the yj had a terrible ride in comparison to the tj, they both wheeled similarly, bet even offroad it tj was more supple and soaked up bumps much better. also, for daily conveniance, the soft top systems available for the tj seem easier to use, stereo placement is better, just better ergonimically. again though it depends on your intended usage and how much money you want to spend. starting and building a yj is your cheapest route to a solid dependable daily driver and wheeler. and older tj, like my 97, is going to have equal issues (rust, brakelines, radiator etc..) as a newer (ala 94-95) yj. the only other advice though, go with a 4.0. great engine, reliable and has plenty of power.

 

[joeylead]

and i just want to make it clear, i am not knocking any kind of jeep. i loved my yj, i thought it was a great little wheeler, and yes i do like the square headlights. Just for me, right now, i prefer my tj. and i would probably have a jk if i could afford one...lol. in the end, all jeeps are damn good, just know what you are buying and make sure it suits your needs.

 

[superj]

I don't like our jku as much as the yjs we have had or our one cj

 

[jfrabat]

Maybe this will help...

CHRISTIAN HAZEL | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Posted September 20, 2013
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Old Jeep Wrangler Vs. New Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

Which Jeep Wrangler Is For You? - Jp Magazine

We’re constantly getting asked by readers, friends, the mailman, and even that weird lady with the pirate hat and “spare change” sign near the local Walmart which Wrangler to buy. Actually, the pirate hat lady kinda mumbles, so we’re kinda guessing she’s asking about Wranglers and not methadone. Some don’t realize that there’s a big difference between a YJ, TJ, and JK, while some are acutely aware of the quantum leap in technological advancements between the models. We frequently steer novices towards ’07-newer Wranglers simply because they suffer fewer age-related mechanical problems, but more often than not we find ourselves telling those facile with a wrench or with several years trail taming experience under their belts to go for an older Wrangler and put money saved on initial purchase price towards trail gear like suspensions and axle beefing components.

As it happened, we had a ’89 Wrangler YJ and ’07 Wrangler Rubicon JK sitting in the driveway next to each other. We drive both off- and on-road almost every day. So we started considering how much each cost to buy and build into their current state, how well each does off-road, how enjoyable they are on-road, and when given the choice, which set of keys of these two representative samples we’re most likely to grab.

Reliability and Durability
The ’89 Wrangler came to the stable as a non-runner with a leaky hydraulic clutch throwout bearing. After the previous owner left it sitting for a couple years, we put in a new Optima battery, changed the fluids and filters, tossed in a new injector for peace of mind, and bled the clutch master cylinder. That’s all it took to make it a runner. After a year or so driving it like this, the clutch throwout bearing failed. Since we were taking the transmission out anyway, we did a story on converting the factory four-cylinder AX5 to the stronger six-cylinder AX15 even though the stock five-speed shifted perfectly. We’ve suffered a small leak in the upper radiator hose, lost a fan belt, and the brake cylinder pin snapped off the passenger-side rear drum backing plate. And we recently found a snapped centerpin on the Rubicon Express driver-side rear leaf spring, which we had to replace just before Moab. Other than these issues, we change the oil about once every two years and beat the snot out of it the rest of the time. On the whole, it’s an anvil.

The ’07 Rubicon has led a hard life at the hands of the Jp staff who regularly drive it. It’s suffered two dead power steering pumps: The original failed and now the replacement is dying. The steering box sector shaft bushings are worn and allowed the pitman arm to kind of flop back and forth, which is why the JKS double-sheer upgrade was added. The rear locker doesn’t always disengage, and we’re not sure if that’s because the factory housing is bent or if it’s a result of shoddy work by the dealership which had to replace the stock ring-and-pinion under warranty when the vehicle was newer. Although the front axle has an upgraded Dynatrac ProRock housing, the ball joints are factory Mopar units and they’re dead, resulting in periodic death wobble and shimmy. The factory exhaust manifolds both developed substantial cracks, so we replaced them with aftermarket shorty headers that were a disaster. The headers cause a whole host of problems, from melted plastic to burned plug wires to a fried ignition module. All that is our fault for doing headers, and after we put factory manifolds back on and replaced all the fried stuff it’s been fine—except the replacement manifolds are now cracked just like the originals. The clutch slave cylinder creaks and groans, the throwout bearing squeals, and the NSG370 six-speed has slowly lost First gear. The transmission jumps out of first taking off from a stop even if you’re holding the shifter firmly in gear with your hand and the transmission makes a loud whining sound in sync with the engine rpm drop between shifts. In short, it needs a transmission rebuild. The engine burns about 1-quart of oil every 1,000 miles (down from 1-quart every 250 miles) and we change the synthetic engine oil every 7,500 miles. The vehicle has gone through several sets of aftermarket and factory control arms. Although it’s never been lifted very much, the control arm bushings egg, break, or wallow. We’re hoping the high-quality JKS control arms we recently installed will be the permanent solution, and so far they’re holding up beautifully.

Winner: The YJ was cheaper to purchase initially and took some elbow grease and money to bring up to mechanical snuff, but once that was done we consider it more durable than the JK and when fixes are required they’re generally easier and less expensive than the newer Wrangler.

Versatility
With no carpet to foul, the ’89 YJ has been treated like a pickup to haul engines to the dyno or bring axles home from the junkyard. It still has a rear seat so it can be a family vehicle to haul kids to school or baseball practice and without a center console or nice fabric seats the kids can just climb straight into the back without any fuss. If necessary, the four-cylinder is economical enough to serve as a commuter to making the 250-mile round-trip drive to the office without putting us in the poor house. We’ve used it to move a heavy wakeboard boat and car trailer around, but it usually has to be put it in low range to get the job done and with no power steering it’s a chore. With the lift, gearing, and lockers it’s off-road-capable enough to have fun almost anywhere, yet civil enough that novices can still drive it on-road. It’s not very high on creature comforts, but if you’re in a bare-bones kinda mood (which we frequently are), it’s a fun ride. That said, if you’re in a big hurry, the four-cylinder can tax your patience.

The few times we’ve used the ’07 Rubicon to haul greasy stuff didn’t turn out well, culminating in a tipped-over transmission and spilled 90W oil that stank so much we had to throw away the rear cargo area carpeting. So with cloth seats and carpet remaining in the passenger areas, it’s not such a great substitute for a pickup. The rear seat is comfy, but the fold-forward function and integrated seatbelts of the two-door’s front seats makes ingress and egress to the back seats frustrating. Otherwise, the satellite radio and 17-ish freeway mpg makes it the commuter vehicle of choice for long hauls and the ability to lock the doors and set an alarm means it’s the best rig to drive to the mall or leave in the airport parking lot. The JK serves as a better trailer moving mule because its more powerful engine and power steering let you squeak trailers in and out of spaces more easily. We’ve used the Warn winch to pull tree stumps and straighten a gate that a careless delivery driver hit.

Winner: We hate to say it, but in terms of versatility it’s a tie. The YJ does better as a greasy parts hauler, and the JK noses ahead as a long-range bomber, but they’re both Jeeps and at their core are designed to serve many masters as anything from a driver to a utility tool.

On-Road
The YJ buzzes, rattles, vibrates, and shakes over 60 mph. It’s a visceral experience to be sure. Even though the seats are supportive and vision is good, longer highway drives can be fatigue-inducing simply due to the cacophony assaulting your eardrums. The YJ is rarely the vehicle of choice if we’re heading very long distances. Slow back road and around-town driving is another matter, however. The seating position in relation to the pedals and transmission shifter just feel better and more ergonomic. It delivers a pleasurable ride whether to the grocery store or ice cream shop.

The JK is much, much more refined. Our upper-level-trim Rubicon has intermittent wipers, rear wiper and defrost, satellite radio, a darn good sound system, and working A/C. Unlike the YJ, all features that ensure you arrive at your destination refreshed and not stinking of sweat and unburned hydrocarbons. One gripe we do have is that the transmission tunnel interferes with the driver’s right leg so you find yourself sitting a tad cockeyed in the seat which on longer trips can cause some knee or hip pain. But despite some slightly unbalanced tires and the aforementioned intermittent death wobble and shimmy and First gear jumpout of the transmission, just set the cruise and let the miles fly by.

Winner: With creature comforts like A/C, power windows, squishy seats, and a hard top, the JK takes the gold here. The mileage delivered by the 3.8L V-6 is comparable to that delivered by the YJ’s 2.5L four-cylinder.

Off-Road
Even with the track bars and antiswaybar removed the YJ will lift a tire in the twisties. And with only a 3.83:1 First gear ratio, 2.72:1 T-case low, and 4.88 axle gears, its 50.83:1 crawl ratio is barely adequate for heavy rock use even with little 31-inch tires. But it’s fairly lightweight at around 3,200 pounds and feels nimble and lithe whether you’re throwing it up dune at 5,000 rpm, playing prerunner down a twisty wash, or idling up and over Moab slickrock. The interior is so basic you don’t get stressed out if mud, dust, or dirt gets plastered all over everything. And there’s no computer-controlled tomfoolery to mess with you if you’re trying to kick the rear end out around a corner or run your locker just in 2WD.

The Rubicon is a purpose-built rock machine, so its high range is a bit too high and the low is a bit too low for sand. The NSG370 has a 4.46:1 First ratio, a 4:1 T-case low, and 4.10 axle gears for an excellent 73:14 crawl ratio. Plus, the Rubicon package tosses in niceties like electronic-disconnect swaybar and front and rear electric lockers. Unless you’re running an aftermarket programmer the electronic nannies will severely limit your fun in high-speed driving and you’ll be getting some unwanted ABS or ESP interference depending on what range you have the T-case in. The flex is better than the YJ, but the stability isn’t as confidence-inspiring when climbing or at angles and (at least the way we have ours set up) you slap bumpstops in the front if traveling washes quickly.

Winner: While the JK Rubicon takes the win in terms of flex and whiz-bang components, the YJ is just a nicer rig to enjoy a the trail in. It’s not quite as pillowy soft as the JK over small rocks and chatter, but the lightweight nimbleness and analog interface between driver and vehicle is a joy. We’d have to add power steering for it to be completely pleasurable, but even without, it’s our go-to Jeep for most off-road Wrangler adventures.

Bottom Line
The YJ wins in terms of reliability and durability and off-road, the JK takes the win in terms of on-road performance and ties the YJ in versatility. The YJ is less expensive to build and purchase, but the JK is better if you’re a novice and/or don’t do your own wrenching and maintenance. The JK is also a currently produced platform and one of the most supported vehicles by the aftermarket ever, so any trinket you can think of is available for it.

If you’re looking to add a Jeep to your fleet as a weekend plaything or an auxiliary or supplemental vehicle just for fun, it’s hard to go wrong with an older Wrangler or even a CJ. However, if you’re going to make a Wrangler your one and only vehicle and use it for daily driving, weekend warrioring, and everything in between, a new JK will certainly over-deliver happiness on all fronts.

So, bottom line, what’s our pick? Since we have an arsenal of other vehicles at our disposal for virtually any use, unless we were going on a long road trip, the YJ would be the set of keys we grab off the peg.

 

[hoobness]

Cj or yj. Cheap n easy to fix and modify. I enjoy tinkering and the old feel over the ones made before 95, however the full cages of the later yjs through today's wranglers IMO are ugly. Newest jeep iid get would be about a 90-91.
Plus the more computers you add to a vehicle the more expensive to repair and modify and also the more unreliable it will inevitably become.

 

[Rebelrick]

The yj can be modified easy v8 swap modify for mud or trail ride think it would be my choice

 

[Dragon5126]

with the after market being what it is, save what you can, and buy what is available based on your budget and mechanical ability. Don't buy a basket case if you PERSONALLY cant put it back together without help. AND don't but something YOU HAVE to spend money on to make it road worthy. Other than this, just keep saving and keep looking, the more cash you have the less it will cost you in the end. Sellers palms get sweaty when the buyer has cash and can walk away with it instead of the vehicle they are trying to sell if you are buying from a dealer counting the money in front of them while telling them the price is too high always works, never tell a private person how much cash you have on you and keep it in different pockets and even your socks. Its easy to rob someone on the premise of selling a car, I've run across police reports where a B&E (breaking and entry) were used to sell stolen vehicles, or rob perspective buyers.
Other than this its a matter of how much you have in hand when the right Jeep comes along, and remember if its already set up for off road ask yourseld how much abuse has it seen, and LOOK for it...

 

[hoobness]

Yj or cj. IMO any jeep with the full cage just looks lame. Get anything pre 92. Easy to fix, plenty of aftermarket options, inexpensive upgrades and they still have a rugged look. After the full cage its as if jeep became soft and concentrated on creature comforts over performance. Hummer did the same thing

 

[BPritchard95]

I personally have to say the YJ. I have a 1994 and love it. They're reliable if taken care of, can be made very rugged, and can look awesome if you add the right stuff to it. Get a 4.0L though. Also make sure you get a '94 or '95 as they were the best years of the model. Just my 2 cents.