shackle reverse???
- Thread starter dempsy1
- Start date
bobcat481
New member
I don't know that for a fact. It was explained to me (off-road at least) that with the reversal, you have less "forward" pressure being exerted on what ever you are trying to get over, because of the axle now wanting the go backwards when the springs are flexed. This is why it makes for a better rode ride because the tire is not being forced into the bump it is hitting. Like I said, I have not experimented with this personally, but as it was explained to me, it made sence. I don't know if with the reversal, that axles wanting to go back will make that much difference of foot pressure of not. Just what I was told. Later!
I did it on my old CJ5.. When I first built the rig, I did a SOA and shackle reversal. I never really had a "baseline" to compare it to but the Jeep did track nicely at highway speed.. even with 35" TSLs. Later, I went to one ton axles and 42" rubber. The reversal worked great offroad too. Never had a problem with it. It also kept me from folding up front leaf springs on big vertical drops. Basically, kept me from jamming the front shackles into the ground/rocks.
One of the things that I did notice however, was the need for a long-spline front driveshaft. IIRC, I was using up to about 4" of spline slip while wheeling (versus an inch or two with a stock setup). I ran a driveshaft with about a foot of splines so it wasn't an issue. However, a stock shaft would've pulled apart or jammed itself into the transfer case while offroading.. gotta use a long-spline shaft.
Another thing with the shackle reversals is that it's not just a matter of swapping spring/shackle hangers. You have to lower the front spring mount and/or shorten the rear shackle in order to preserve proper pinion/caster angles. The front frame horn sits higher than the frame area around the spring mount so you end up making a longer spring hanger up front.. this can look kind of weird.
Having said all that, on my current CJ5, I don't think I'll bother to do a SRS. I have been thinking about maybe doing another coilover/link suspension though..
One of the things that I did notice however, was the need for a long-spline front driveshaft. IIRC, I was using up to about 4" of spline slip while wheeling (versus an inch or two with a stock setup). I ran a driveshaft with about a foot of splines so it wasn't an issue. However, a stock shaft would've pulled apart or jammed itself into the transfer case while offroading.. gotta use a long-spline shaft.
Another thing with the shackle reversals is that it's not just a matter of swapping spring/shackle hangers. You have to lower the front spring mount and/or shorten the rear shackle in order to preserve proper pinion/caster angles. The front frame horn sits higher than the frame area around the spring mount so you end up making a longer spring hanger up front.. this can look kind of weird.
Having said all that, on my current CJ5, I don't think I'll bother to do a SRS. I have been thinking about maybe doing another coilover/link suspension though..
73CJ
New member
I went with a M.O.R.E. Very streetable and yes the axle doesn't fight the bump you are trying to go over. Tom Woods makes a fine driveshaft with extended travel and can help decide which is best. He set mine up fine and works great. Stands behind his product with fast service. Isn't a cheap conversion, but works good.
bobcat481
New member
That was kind of the opinion I always had. Your driving a brick with a tent on it. Can it really be that much smoother of a ride?
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