I know I asked this the other day but got several mixed answers. I wanted to know the overall length and the distance between bolt holes on some lift shackles. hi-c told me he had some 1 1/4 in ones and they were 6 1/2 in overall and the holes were 1 in from each end. That would be 4 1/2 in between bolt holes. My stock ones are 6 in long overall and the bolt holes are 4 in between centers. How can that be 1 1/4 in. Am i missing something here. 4-Wheel parts is closed till Monday and i cant go there and measure any. Can someone measure theirs and tell me the overall length and the distance between bolt holes. I would like to make mine tomorrow . Thanks in advance.
Shackles
- Thread starter RedWrang
- Start date
TwistedCU
New member
The total length is irrelevent and the only measurement that matters at all is the distance between the bolt holes.
4" between holes = stock
4 1/2" ---------- = 1/4" lift
5" ------------ = 1/2" lift
5 1/2" ---------- = 3/4" lift
6" ------------ = 1" lift
Anything over 6" between holes = sloppy steering! :wink:
If Hi_C's Shackles are 5.75" between holes, they will net a little over 3/4" of lift (.875" to be exact).
4" between holes = stock
4 1/2" ---------- = 1/4" lift
5" ------------ = 1/2" lift
5 1/2" ---------- = 3/4" lift
6" ------------ = 1" lift
Anything over 6" between holes = sloppy steering! :wink:
If Hi_C's Shackles are 5.75" between holes, they will net a little over 3/4" of lift (.875" to be exact).
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Don't worry about total length when determining amount of lift over stock, just distance between the holes.
I have to disagree with the statement that "anything over 6 inches = sloppy steering". There is a point when it gets ridiculous, but that's not 100% true. The key element here with shackles and steering is the presence of a cross-brace. Again, my shackles have a box welded in the middle of them (some have a 3rd bolt in a sleeve, others just a flat piece of 1/4" steel). Because the stock shackles are short, there's not as much side-to-side movement without the cross-brace. But when going to an extended shackle, the presence of a cross-brace helps to retain the rigidity under stress from steering.
I will agree, though, that 6" shackles should be the maximum. If you need more than that, you just need to spend the $ for a susp. lift.... even if it's just a 2.5" add-a-leaf.
C
I will agree, though, that 6" shackles should be the maximum. If you need more than that, you just need to spend the $ for a susp. lift.... even if it's just a 2.5" add-a-leaf.
C
TwistedCU
New member
hi_c said:
I was referring to the added caster. It is uncorrectable and makes driving in a straight line a near impossibility. I know this from experience. I agree that longer shackles should have a cross brace, although mine don't but they're only 5" and I needed them to not have one for the military wrapped spring eyes, but that is a separate issue from what I was saying. It's a steering geometry thing not stability.
You can shim the axle to correct steering issues. I know.......rigging......but you can.
The key to long shackles is making sure you don't put too much stress on the frame and those two little bolts holding the shackle hanger to the frame. Monster shackle lifts require combining a sensible shackle length that doesn't allow overextension of the springs and a lift block between the shackle hanger and the frame. Then welding a bar from each block to the block on the other side to box the setup and relieve stress from the frame.
TwistedCopper-- What is the diameter of your military wrap?
The key to long shackles is making sure you don't put too much stress on the frame and those two little bolts holding the shackle hanger to the frame. Monster shackle lifts require combining a sensible shackle length that doesn't allow overextension of the springs and a lift block between the shackle hanger and the frame. Then welding a bar from each block to the block on the other side to box the setup and relieve stress from the frame.
TwistedCopper-- What is the diameter of your military wrap?
TwistedCU
New member
Junkpile said:
I'm not sure exactly. They are BDS and they are big-almost to the point of overkill. The rear springs would hit the frame on full flex with the stock shackles so now I have a set that are an inch longer (problem solved and another 1/2" of lift). I can measure them, but it's late and cold. I'll get back to you on that one.
TwistedCU
New member
When I wrote ealier that I knew the caster was an issue from experience, I meant past experience. I had some ridiculously big shackes on my YJ before the suspension lift. I got 'em from a guy on ebay promising 2" lift and no steering problems (Southwest 4x4). Well they were huge and did lift it 2", I actually put my 32's on the Jeep with them and they didn't rub on the road but my steering was whacked! They didn't stay on there long!
Just a thought - it would probably be alot smarter to just add-a-leaf if you were to go to all the trouble to shim the axle for correcting caster. Wouldn't be much more work and you'd get more lift and steering wouldn't be an issue for close to the same cost.
Just a thought - it would probably be alot smarter to just add-a-leaf if you were to go to all the trouble to shim the axle for correcting caster. Wouldn't be much more work and you'd get more lift and steering wouldn't be an issue for close to the same cost.
I know it is kind of a weird request, but I would really appreciate it if you would post the diameter of the military wrap when you get a chance. I make a few Jeep parts on the side, and I have run into the military wrap thing with shackles. I'm trying to get an idea of what the average size of a wrap is, so I can make a few sets in advance.
The axle shimming and block thing is a last resort. When you are all done and you realize you are still a little short.....it's time to get creative.
The axle shimming and block thing is a last resort. When you are all done and you realize you are still a little short.....it's time to get creative.
TwistedCU
New member
stupid clutch went out
Junkpile-
The eyes on my BDS springs are 3" in diameter.
The rear has enough clearance with a 5" shackle, but not enough room for a cross brace between the side plates:
The Front has plenty of clearance even with the stock shackles, but I have a set matching the rear. I should probably have had them made with a cross brace on the front, but hindsight is 20/20!:
I have seen shackles advertised that are 5/8" longer than stock and angled to compensate for this clearance issue in the rear, but they only came with the greaseable bolts (which I already had) and were kind of expensive so I had these made.
Junkpile-
The eyes on my BDS springs are 3" in diameter.
The rear has enough clearance with a 5" shackle, but not enough room for a cross brace between the side plates:
The Front has plenty of clearance even with the stock shackles, but I have a set matching the rear. I should probably have had them made with a cross brace on the front, but hindsight is 20/20!:
I have seen shackles advertised that are 5/8" longer than stock and angled to compensate for this clearance issue in the rear, but they only came with the greaseable bolts (which I already had) and were kind of expensive so I had these made.
so if i was to use an 8" shackle with 6" between the holes and a cross brace in the front? i would like to know if i could use a peice of channel steel for the front shackle how much of a cross brace do i need? and how wide is the frame so that i know how big a channel steel i need and how long of bolts and what grade bolt do i need? any comments
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
That shackle is 3" longer overall than a stock shackle, you'll be hitting everything with the shackles, once climbing up and again when the back end comes off an obstacle. The decreased approach and departure angles really suck, you should look elsewhere for lift.
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