SOA with no $

[yz250f_53]

huge lift springs

I have a 93 yj for a project, I was planning on doing a SOA. Do I have to do a tailhousing conversion right away or can it wait a year? Have new house and new baby that are limiting my mad money. The jeep is not a DD just for family fun .

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

You can get by with a transfer case drop.

The front brake hardlines can be relocated further down on the outside of the frame, or beneath the frame. You'll need an extended brake line for the rear, braided SS run about $35.

 

[TwistedCU]

RE: are you sure about the 207???

Snitty (on this forum) had a similar project on his YJ. Got a few junkyard parts and did it very, very cheap. Search his posts.

Can you weld?

 

[Snitty]

Re: RE: cherokee leaf packs

If you can't weld and/or are not crafty with metal, you might as well wait til you have some money. If you plan on doing it inexpensive, it requires some fabrication. Not including tires, I spent about $350 on shocks, pitman arm, brake lines, metal for making parts, driveshaft, and tail shaft conversion (SYE).

If you want details on any specific part, just ask

 

[yz250f_53]

Re: **UPDATE**

Yes I can weld, I have had a few classes. And my in-laws own a welding fab shop. Thanks for the info, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

 

[Snitty]

RE: Is Black Diamond better than a Rancho lift for a CJ7

when you come up with some... just ask away

 

[prariepunk]

RE: Just when I thought I was a mans man....

Can I get some info too? I have a '76 cj5 and want to do a soa with yj springs... what about driveshaft lengths?

 

[Snitty]

Just about every jeep will require a different length of driveshaft depending on spring lift, fatigue, and a number of other factors. keep asking away

 

[prariepunk]

I started off with my CJ-5 and wanted to run 39" boggers (boogers), and found that a 4" lift would give me clearance but not flex.......[thinking] hhmmmm !SOA! but how? [/thinking] I know i need Spring pads, YJ springs (would a set of stock YJ springs be enough lift to run 39"s?), front knuckles (high steer), I want to run D60's so... tie rods, brake lines, anything else oh master of the inexpensive SOA: Snitty

 

[MerkL]

(would a set of stock YJ springs be enough lift to run 39"s?)

No, I don't think so. They might squeeze in there, but rubbing would be a major problem while flexing.

 

[prariepunk]

RE: Wheel upgrade

So, what... a 2" lift? more? I'm getting a D60 front to match my rear: 70"s WMS to WMS, I do NOT want to roll (no roll cage tie-in) but if it happens, oh well.

 

[currupt4130]

RE: Re: RE: LOCKERS

stock leafs and some trimming. when your running 39s i dont think many people care about the body

 

[Junkpile]

Well hell, just cut the body off and bolt them on at stock height. It'll be cool :lol:

 

[Snitty]

To run 39s, I would suggest at least 2" lift springs. If you make your own perches, you can also design them with an inch or so of lift integrated into them. With that much lift, you'll definitely want some sort of axle stabilization/anti-wrap device.

 

[prariepunk]

Like trac-bars or a ladder bar? www.sams4x4store.com/images/HDTractionbarDSCN1809.jpg LIKE THIS? or like this www.nm505.com/~jeep/pics/TractionLink/tractionlink4.jpg . iwch one would be better?

 

[currupt4130]

that second one is trick, it isnt fixed, instead it uses hydraluic compression to slower down axle wrap and control it. the first one would do you fine, tons of people run them. another version of the anti wrap bar is the attatching a fixed point to the top of each spring perch and running it to the frame

 

[prariepunk]

RE: Hello strangers

another version of the anti wrap bar is the attatching a fixed point to the top of each spring perch and running it to the frame

HUH? I'm not getting it. Run something along the springpack to the frame?

 

[Snitty]

you can weld a tab on the Ubolt plate and run a bar up toward the spring hanger. I've seen people simply use a piece of 1" steel bar. They flattened out each end, perpendicular to each other. Drilled 1/2" holes in each flattened out end, secured one end with a Ubolt nut and the other end with the spring hanger bolt

 

[Junkpile]

Any rigid link is going to bind your leaf springs, that's all there is to it. You can over-engineer it to death, but at the end of the day you can't get around the fact that the springs length changes as it cycles. A rigid link is going to hold the axle at a fixed distance from the spring eye, basically locking up the movement of that half of the leaf to some degree. If it doesn't......it ain't working.

You need to have some sort of device that allows it to follow the springs move ment, but control rotation of the housing. The point of a traction bar isn't to locate the axle front-to-back or side-to-side, it's to keep it from rotating as a result of springwrap. The single "ladder" style bars with the shackled frame mount does a pretty good job in most cases without limiting spring movement too much.

 

[LVRockCrawler]

junkpile is right... almost anything you do to cut down wrap will limit articulation...which is what kills me when i see trucks with 6" lift blocks in the rear (axle wrap hell!!!) = keep the sprink as close to the axle as possible and deal with what you get (i get killer wheel hop with my 4" SUA lift in wet conditions...) just thought i'd chime in...