steering info???
- Thread starter yjdave
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I'm going with the '98 Durango with snowplow option, I know it's a bolt-in. I'm sure the snow plow option is heavier duty.
Figured I'd add this for the writeups. Did it about 2 months ago. Overall I am very happy with it. My other one was shot so it was a impressive difference. Huge difference in size. My only problems with the install was that Advanced auto kept giving me bad boxes. The first one was a durango box, the box had play which I could not take out adjusting the preload. The second box was a waggy box, the threads for the pitman arm were stripped. The third box was another durango one and its fine. Took 3 or 4 days but it got done. It bolts up without a hitch. Same bolt pattern just a wider box. 3 full turns lock to lock. To do this you will need...
A steering gear box from a 99 Durango 5.2L
Pitman arm puller
5/8 socket
1 and 5/16" socket
13mm socket
17mm wrench
ft/lbs torque wrench
power steering fluid
Pickle fork
Drain pan
Jack and stands
---------
Torque settings
Steering gear to frame: 65 ft/lbs
Pitman arms to shaft: 185 ft/lbs
Stabilizer bar to frame: 55 ft/lbs
Stabilizer bar to link: 27 ft/lbs
Center link to pitman arms: 55 ft lbs
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Start by Jacking up the front axle and getting the wheels off of the ground. Then secure jackstands under the vehicle.
Then remove the cotter pin on the castle nut holding the draglink to the pitman arm, followed by removing the castle nut.
Then drop the draglink from the pitman arm by using a pickle fork.
If you have sway bar disconnects, disco them and pull them down to swing the antisway bar out of the way of the pitman arm nut. If not then you must drop the swaybar by removing the mounting bolts.
Remove the nut and washer from the pitman arm.
Remove the pitman arm using a puller
Position a drain pan under the steering box then remove the power steering lines going into the steering box, then allow it to drain or if you want to save the fluid clamp the hoses off.
Remove the sheild going over the steering shaft behind the steering box by removing the 13mm bolt holding it on. Then rotate the steering shaft until you can see the other 13mm bolt at the joint on the input shaft on the box. Remove the 13mm bolt and slide the steering shaft back and out of the way of the box.
Remove the 3 mounting bolts for the steering box from the uniframe rail. Make sure you have a hold on the box as you remove the last bolt. Lower the box and pull it out.
Now you have the two next to eachother.
Reinstall everything in reverse. When reattaching the steering shafts collar to the input shaft of the box it was a tight fit for me. I jammed a flathead in the crack in the collar to open the gap up a bit so I could slide it on. Not sure why it didnt line up for me. Maybe a different spline count? Maybe advanced auto buys sucky remans. Make sure you bottom out the steering shaft and drop in the 13mm bolt.
Once everything is installed and torqued down you then add fluid to the steering box. Turn the wheels from lock to lock with the front end still off the ground. Do this for a few times and check the fluid level. I had to do this for about 10mins to get out all of the air. Dont overfill the reservoir. If you do, pull out the excess with a turkey baster. After you burp the system for a bit and dont see the fluid burping up in the reservoir then start the vehicle. Turn lock to lock for a bit more just to make sure no air is left in the lines. Drop the vehicle off the jackstands and check the fluid level once more. Take her for a drive and see how it goes.
A steering gear box from a 99 Durango 5.2L
Pitman arm puller
5/8 socket
1 and 5/16" socket
13mm socket
17mm wrench
ft/lbs torque wrench
power steering fluid
Pickle fork
Drain pan
Jack and stands
---------
Torque settings
Steering gear to frame: 65 ft/lbs
Pitman arms to shaft: 185 ft/lbs
Stabilizer bar to frame: 55 ft/lbs
Stabilizer bar to link: 27 ft/lbs
Center link to pitman arms: 55 ft lbs
---------
Start by Jacking up the front axle and getting the wheels off of the ground. Then secure jackstands under the vehicle.
Then remove the cotter pin on the castle nut holding the draglink to the pitman arm, followed by removing the castle nut.
Then drop the draglink from the pitman arm by using a pickle fork.
If you have sway bar disconnects, disco them and pull them down to swing the antisway bar out of the way of the pitman arm nut. If not then you must drop the swaybar by removing the mounting bolts.
Remove the nut and washer from the pitman arm.
Remove the pitman arm using a puller
Position a drain pan under the steering box then remove the power steering lines going into the steering box, then allow it to drain or if you want to save the fluid clamp the hoses off.
Remove the sheild going over the steering shaft behind the steering box by removing the 13mm bolt holding it on. Then rotate the steering shaft until you can see the other 13mm bolt at the joint on the input shaft on the box. Remove the 13mm bolt and slide the steering shaft back and out of the way of the box.
Remove the 3 mounting bolts for the steering box from the uniframe rail. Make sure you have a hold on the box as you remove the last bolt. Lower the box and pull it out.
Now you have the two next to eachother.
Reinstall everything in reverse. When reattaching the steering shafts collar to the input shaft of the box it was a tight fit for me. I jammed a flathead in the crack in the collar to open the gap up a bit so I could slide it on. Not sure why it didnt line up for me. Maybe a different spline count? Maybe advanced auto buys sucky remans. Make sure you bottom out the steering shaft and drop in the 13mm bolt.
Once everything is installed and torqued down you then add fluid to the steering box. Turn the wheels from lock to lock with the front end still off the ground. Do this for a few times and check the fluid level. I had to do this for about 10mins to get out all of the air. Dont overfill the reservoir. If you do, pull out the excess with a turkey baster. After you burp the system for a bit and dont see the fluid burping up in the reservoir then start the vehicle. Turn lock to lock for a bit more just to make sure no air is left in the lines. Drop the vehicle off the jackstands and check the fluid level once more. Take her for a drive and see how it goes.
moparman12
New member
FYI, the snowplow option is not HD, it is just a different ratio. SLOWER! Use the standard 99 Durango/Dakota box if you want the faster steering.
Thanks that is what im looking for.
Think i'll get the stock 98' box and try that and im hearing zj pump's w/ v8 is a good upgrade for that. Anyone got info on that one.
Hopefully all this and the waggy drop pitman arm should help cure all these prob and help push the 35-37's around better.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I need info on a good oem pump also, if anyone knows.
Ok i'm getting the run around. The parts store says there is a difference between 98'-99'. I said there isn't but what the hell do i know. also there is talk of the durango box going bad in 6-18 mo's. anyone know anything? Also any info on a astro van or s-10 box? reading up on pirate but that is a cluster @#$^ anyway.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Don't know the difference between '98-'99, but I've always heard/read that the '98 is the box to swap in, don't know why.
moparman12
New member
Again, you DON'T want the snowplow option. The 98-99 Dakota or Durango box is what you want for a bit quicker turning ratio. I talked to our local Dodge dealer and he confirmed it was a slower box. More weight on the front end needs more leverage, not quicker steering, so that makes perfect sense.
That said, I just got a Dakota box 2 days ago and it is from a 98 Dakota Sport. It is 2-15/16ths just like it is supposed to be.
If you get a 98-99 Dakota/Durango "snowplow option" box, it will be the same as stock Jeep. It is NOT heavier duty either, just slower.
That said, I just got a Dakota box 2 days ago and it is from a 98 Dakota Sport. It is 2-15/16ths just like it is supposed to be.
If you get a 98-99 Dakota/Durango "snowplow option" box, it will be the same as stock Jeep. It is NOT heavier duty either, just slower.
moparman12
New member
99 Durango is the best to ask for, just to be sure.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Why? (I mean when compared to '98 ).
Ok, if your pushing around 36-37" tires wouldn't you want more "leverage". And quicker steering, isn't that for race cars?
I don't know, just asking
Also i always heard 98' also. why?
SteelHeadz
Super Moderator
The Difference Between the 98 and 99 Durango steering Gear box:
98 /AN body/5.9 gas/POWER STEERING GEAR
Two recirculating ball type gears Recirculating Ball Gear-Typical are used on this vehicle, a standard and heavy duty (HD) The gear ratio is the same for both gears 17.5 to 1. The gears are identified by the letters on a label located on the pitman shaft housing cover next to the adjustment screw. The heavy duty gear is identified as a BB and the standard as a AC.
The gear acts as a rolling thread between the worm shaft and rack piston. The worm shaft is supported by a thrust bearing at the lower end and a bearing assembly at the upper end. When the worm shaft is turned the rack piston moves. The rack piston teeth mesh with the pitman shaft. Turning the worm shaft turns the pitman shaft, which turns the steering linkage
99'/AN Body/ 5.9 Gas:
A recirculating ball type gears Recirculating Ball Gear-Typical is used on this vehicle. The gear has a variable ratio of 16-13 to 1.
The gear acts as a rolling thread between the worm shaft and rack piston. The worm shaft is supported by a thrust bearing at the lower end and a bearing assembly at the upper end. When the worm shaft is turned the rack piston moves. The rack piston teeth mesh with the pitman shaft. Turning the worm shaft turns the pitman shaft, which turns the steering linkage
98 /AN body/5.9 gas/POWER STEERING GEAR
Two recirculating ball type gears Recirculating Ball Gear-Typical are used on this vehicle, a standard and heavy duty (HD) The gear ratio is the same for both gears 17.5 to 1. The gears are identified by the letters on a label located on the pitman shaft housing cover next to the adjustment screw. The heavy duty gear is identified as a BB and the standard as a AC.
The gear acts as a rolling thread between the worm shaft and rack piston. The worm shaft is supported by a thrust bearing at the lower end and a bearing assembly at the upper end. When the worm shaft is turned the rack piston moves. The rack piston teeth mesh with the pitman shaft. Turning the worm shaft turns the pitman shaft, which turns the steering linkage
99'/AN Body/ 5.9 Gas:
A recirculating ball type gears Recirculating Ball Gear-Typical is used on this vehicle. The gear has a variable ratio of 16-13 to 1.
The gear acts as a rolling thread between the worm shaft and rack piston. The worm shaft is supported by a thrust bearing at the lower end and a bearing assembly at the upper end. When the worm shaft is turned the rack piston moves. The rack piston teeth mesh with the pitman shaft. Turning the worm shaft turns the pitman shaft, which turns the steering linkage
cool! 98 and 99 Durango steering Gear box is very different. . .Its all clear here.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
What are the benefits of one over the other?
SteelHeadz
Super Moderator
The only benefit i can see on the 99 is the Variable Ratio. Ease on turns with higher loads.
moparman12
New member
Glad somebody knows more than me. I stand very corrected.
And I said 99 is best because you are sure to get the better ratio box, if that is your aim....
And I said 99 is best because you are sure to get the better ratio box, if that is your aim....
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Btt, still on the fence as to which box is best. From my research the '98 with snow plow has more turns lock to lock. Now IF this is the same ratio as the '98 w/o snow plow option that has fewer turns lock to lock, is it safe to assume you can turn sharper with the snow plow option? I read somewhere that there are internal steering locks that limit the turning radius of the steering box w/o plow option.
