Still no spark

[HexedHero]

So I’ve been having this issue for about 3 weeks now. About 3 weeks ago I replaced the transmission and clutch in my 95 wrangler 2.5L and it ran like a charm. Felt great, shifted smooth, started up with no problems. The next morning I went to drive it to work and broke down after the 8 mile marker. It stalled in fourth gear cruising with no warning and made one clunk noise, I can only assume from the transmission dropping back to neutral because the engine stalled. It started back up after a good 10 minutes and then stalled again without touching anything. I had it towed home and I went to work trying to fix it. First I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and that seemed to work, I drove it around for a little and then the same thing happened, and it started back up and tried to drive it back home and it stalled and wouldn’t start back up. Next day I replaced the ignition coil and it wouldn’t start, still, I then put the old ignition coil back in and it started again. And the same thing happened once again. I put the new coil back in again and figured it wasn’t the coil that was the problem. Onto the next, I just replaced the camshaft position sensor and the semi-burnt ECU fuse and still no cigar. The whole time I’ve been getting error code 11, bad crank/camshaft position sensor. But I’ve replaced both at this point and some. I’ve checked all my grounding and tightened every bolt and connection and I’m still getting nothing. My battery is dying very fast as well, since the problem started my battery seems to be bad but every time I try to start it now to see if it will run I have been jumping it, so the battery isn’t the problem I’m looking for. Someone please tell me you have some ideas, and please don’t tell me it’s the ECM, I can’t afford it. To clarify, I have a no spark condition, I can’t imagine any reason the timing belt or fuel pump would create a no spark condition.


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[JPNinPA]

Ok
The battery could be the issue. Get it fully charged then load tested. If it doesn’t pAss replace. Clean all contact points including ground to engine snd chassis points.

Second you are certain you nave no spark?

Third was CPS and CPK OEM? Non OEM fail out of the box. CKP should have a paper gasket to set the spacing to the flywheel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp_kK6U8a64
. https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep/4.0L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1

Check the timing of cps to the engine timing TDC. If not has timing chain skipped a tooth.

Be sure to try to clear the code snd see if it returns.


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[HexedHero]

Like I said with the battery, I’ve been jumping it to test, I know the battery is one issue, but I want to know why I’m not getting spark even while trying to jump it. Yes I’m certain I have no spark, I’m not getting anything out of the coil. Both CPS and CKP are OEM from oreileys. Yes aftermarket, but OEM specs, funny enough the first CKP I tried was a cheap Korean one and it actually fired up and ran for a little bit with that cheap one in, but not with the expensive one. The timing of the CPS should be fine, I didn’t replace the distributor, just the sensor. Please tell me how to clear the code.


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[JPNinPA]

Remove the pos battery connection and touch it to the negative terminal for 30 seconds. That clears it. Reattach the pos connector. This code will come back quickly if real.

Did the Any of the CKP end up cracking?


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[JPNinPA]

Crown Automotive 56026882

Delphi SS10221 is OEM


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[HexedHero]

While the negative terminal is attached? I was told to take both off and touch them together while off, and not but for 5 seconds. And no the CKP didn’t crack. It physically looks brand new like it should be.


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[JPNinPA]

Yes only need to take the POS wire connection off and short to ground. It needs to be long enough to drain the caps holding charge that keep memory. Once drained the memory is reset.

Ground the wire connector. DO NOT short the battery POS terminal to ground. NO NO you do not want to do that. Only the POS wire terminal.


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[JPNinPA]

Could your clutch switch be an issue. On TJs there is a clutch bypass fuse. When inserted you could (not recommended) start with the clutch engaged. A thought would be starting normally with the fuse in. This rilles out the switch.




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[HexedHero]

Could your clutch switch be an issue. On TJs there is a clutch bypass fuse. When inserted you could (not recommended) start with the clutch engaged. A thought would be starting normally with the fuse in. This rilles out the switch.




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Further testing was just done... it seems like something ing is shorting out the new ignition coils I keep buying and replacing. My camshaft sensor is also sending 7v back to the computer through intermediate ground when I was told it should only be putting out 5v. The coil seems to be cutting off when I turn the key because As soon as I turn the key on I’m not getting a reading from the coil, or distributor. But I am getting that 7v reading with just the ignition turned on. I’ve got multiple backyard mechanics racking their heads over this and no one can seem to figure out what could be creating this condition. At this point it could only be explained by a short right? I’m just hoping that short isn’t in the ECM.


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[JPNinPA]

Did you take care of the weak battery? Have you measured, clean and replaced any grounds?
Did you clear the codes and did it come back? check the wiring and connectors to the CPS and CKP verify ground to distributor.
All fuses and relays?
Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn key on?

Somewhere i read if you leave the key on eventually you hear a click and a dash light comes on. If you try starting after that and it starts. This is a sing PCM is going. Idk but waiting 5-20
Min with key on seems like a power ground cap or connector issue. But just sharing what i read.


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[HexedHero]

Did you take care of the weak battery? Have you measured, clean and replaced any grounds?
Did you clear the codes and did it come back? check the wiring and connectors to the CPS and CKP verify ground to distributor.
All fuses and relays?
Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn key on?

Somewhere i read if you leave the key on eventually you hear a click and a dash light comes on. If you try starting after that and it starts. This is a sing PCM is going. Idk but waiting 5-20
Min with key on seems like a power ground cap or connector issue. But just sharing what i read.


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No new battery. Grounding isn’t an issue, it just so happened my ECM went out right after I did my transmission. I am getting the check engine light which doesn’t make much sense but I am getting a clicking noise coming from the fuel pump relay which I’ve been told is a key sign the ECM is bad. I’ll be replacing the capacitors in my ECM tomorrow. I’ll let you know how it goes (yes I’m confident in my ability to solder, I’ve been doing it for 2 years with very little trouble. 3 measly capacitors isn’t any worry for me.)


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[HexedHero]

No new battery. Grounding isn’t an issue, it just so happened my ECM went out right after I did my transmission. I am getting the check engine light which doesn’t make much sense but I am getting a clicking noise coming from the fuel pump relay which I’ve been told is a key sign the ECM is bad. I’ll be replacing the capacitors in my ECM tomorrow. I’ll let you know how it goes (yes I’m confident in my ability to solder, I’ve been doing it for 2 years with very little trouble. 3 measly capacitors isn’t any worry for me.)


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I guess not.. I don’t know. I put new relays in and didn’t harm the computer. It’s still doing the same exact thing as it was doing before. I’m at a loss.


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