Sorry, I don't have any experience with Cherokees or the 4.0.
TFI ignition upgrade
- Thread starter TerryMason
- Start date
Sorry, I don't have any experience with Cherokees or the 4.0.
iraq_vet_x2
New member
Terry, can you tell me if this part number from advance auto parts will work in lieu of the cap, rotor, and base? part #8230.
Thanks
Thanks
Sorry man, but I don't have any way to check something like that.
89 jeep yj
New member
Hi my name is Jim. I just became a member today. I'm going to install this upgrade on my jeep today and wondering about the dist centrifugal adv springs. I would also like to do this and was looking for more information. Thank You for taking my question.
Welcome Jim.
I've always heard that you could tweek the advance a bit with new springs, but I've never tried it myself, and don't know enough to help you with them. TeamRush is the real mastermind behind this - hopefully he'll chime in.
BrockGrimes
New member
Isn't the coil listed in the parts list a v-8 coil?
Also will this mod work with a 4.3L chevy Throttle body/computer?
I plan to swap over the throttle body and comp to my 258.
Also will this mod work with a 4.3L chevy Throttle body/computer?
I plan to swap over the throttle body and comp to my 258.
ursman
New member
The coil listed should be good for any GM 2.8/4.3 engine. I currently have the upgrade installed on my 4.2L w/ Howell setup and have had no problems.
BrockGrimes
New member
Installed the mod today with the stock carb and shiz.
Man it fired up instantly and purrs, I'm at 6*BTDC now but with a little tuning and a timing change I bet this will really be something. I can already tell a difference in just how easy it started and idles. Great stuff.
I picked up all the NAPA parts, but got the 6 cyl plug wires instead of the 8cyl, the whole setup was about $125.
Well worth it. Funny side note the 6 cyl plug wire set comes with an extra plug wire, 8 instead of 7 wires. Hmmm.....wonder what this is for.
Man it fired up instantly and purrs, I'm at 6*BTDC now but with a little tuning and a timing change I bet this will really be something. I can already tell a difference in just how easy it started and idles. Great stuff.
I picked up all the NAPA parts, but got the 6 cyl plug wires instead of the 8cyl, the whole setup was about $125.
Well worth it. Funny side note the 6 cyl plug wire set comes with an extra plug wire, 8 instead of 7 wires. Hmmm.....wonder what this is for.
Last edited:
That's the optional super upgrade to a 7 cylinder engine
I'm glad everything worked out.
Terry
89 jeep yj
New member
After two weeks with this upgrade I love it. I do get one and half miles more to the gallon and she purrs like a kitten. FYI ; I went to the salvage yard and got my parts off a 94 Ford. Thanks for sharing that info. Still wondering about the dist. centrifugal adv. springs? Has anybody replaced this before?
The very early 4.0 engines have a set of plug wires that will work with the upgraded cap like a dream!
They are exactly the correct size with the correct ends!
1994 4.0L Plug wires are PERFECT for 258 & 232 I-6 Applications!
-----------------------------------------
As for upgrading a 4.0L engine...
That's not what I developed this upgrade for.
There are people that SWEAR there are parts that fit right on the 4.0L engine,
And that 4.0L engine parts fit right on the earlier engines, but I have NOT researched this and I can NOT verify this.
Advance Auto Parts
For 258 I-6 Distributor, '78 to '86.
Base p/n C193AP or FR109
Cap & Rotor p/n 202X
Last edited:
----------------------------------
Sorry about the lack of links and pictures, seems I'm not allowed to post pics or links yet...
----------------------------------
You CAN use the advance spring to 'Fine Tune' your ignition advance to your particular set up...
Most guys rush in and put on large tires without reducing gear ratio,
And if they had 'HighWay' gears to start with, they just made the Final Drive ratio a lot 'Taller'.
This makes the engine work a lot harder at lower RPM, and can cause some 'Pinging' and 'Spark Knock' problems, especially on the highway or under heavy load...
---------
Another common problem is your distributor was set up for 'SMOG' application,
Not for POWER applications.
Since most of us don't have working 'SMOG' equipment anymore,
And since most of the 'SMOG' equipment has been removed from our engines,
And since many of us have added 'Performance' parts that we are far from taking optimum advantage of...
You can extract some extra power from your engines by custom tailoring your ignition 'Curve' to your particular engine and drive train setup.
-------------------------------------
Now, Remember!
This is by no means mandatory,
and you shouldn't have to change things very much,
But it can make a BIG difference in some vehicles!
.................................
Start with a set of Mr.Gasket p/n 925D Springs.
Remember, about all distributor springs are about the same, so if you have some laying around,
Or find a set at the parts store with a larger selection inside, it's perfectly fine to get those!
--------------------------------
Secondly, you will need to 'GRAPH' your current centrifugal advance curve.
That means getting a Timing Tape for your balancer,
(I use MSD p/n 8985 from Summitracing.com, $4 for several sizes)
A tachometer for your engine so you know what RPM the engine is running,
And learning how to use a timing light properly!
----------------------------------
If any of this is a problem, then you need to rethink working on the Centrifugal Advance.
Third is the actual disassembly of the distributor, and swapping the springs, which is actually VERY easy once you have done it a couple of times...
..........................
The idea is,
The STIFFER the combined spring pressure is, the slower the weights take to add centrifugal advance as the distributor turns with the engine.
Conversely, the LIGHTER the combined spring pressure is, the FASTER the weights spin out and add centrifugal advance to the ignition.
For instructions in detail,
Check here,
CivilianJeep.Info
The site is BRAND NEW, and I'm writing, photographing and editing the articles as fast as I can (NO HELP!), so if you get a dead link or two, come back in a few weeks and try again!
I would have to say 'NO' right off hand, although the way AMC/Jeep went dumpster diving for parts through those years, who knows!
'77 Wagoneer should have the 'BID' or 'Breakerless Ignition Distributor' which is a Prestolite unit.
(means NO breaker points in the distributor)
Have a look at your distirbutor, if it has a PLASTIC VACUUM ADVANCE, you have a Prestolite ignition, and there is no 'Upgrades' for you right now unless you want to convert the distributor and module over to something we can work with... (About $100 worth of off the shelf parts)
----------------------
HOWEVER,
If you have a METAL vacuum advance, you have the 'SSI' system (Solid State Ignition) made by Motorcraft/Ford for AMC/Jeep, and we can work with that!
There is a very common upgrade for it using off the shelf parts!
Last edited:
Rollbar
New member
OK, ?
I've heard that the stock ignition module needs to have a capacitor added or something.....in line or it will burn up eventually from the coil. Is this true? I have all the parts but have not installed due to this reason. I have heard of people being stranded because of the stock module problem, I do have a spare
I've heard that the stock ignition module needs to have a capacitor added or something.....in line or it will burn up eventually from the coil. Is this true? I have all the parts but have not installed due to this reason. I have heard of people being stranded because of the stock module problem, I do have a spare
OK, ?
I've heard that the stock ignition module needs to have a capacitor added or something.....in line or it will burn up eventually from the coil. Is this true? I have all the parts but have not installed due to this reason. I have heard of people being stranded because of the stock module problem, I do have a spare
Not really true, but some people have had ignition module problems...
There IS ALREADY an ignition resistor (resistor wire) in the power feed line to the ignition module from the factory.
That's not the issue.
When you open up the plug gap, that demands more voltage from the coil, and your 23+ year old modules or 'China' import modules might not be up to the job.
Most people complain when it goes out, but they REALLY didn't think a module older than them a lot of the time was going to last forever, DID THEY?
There are THREE easy sloutions.
1. Is a premium module replacment from NAPA or some place reputable. (as in NOT an Import from China, Korea, South Africa, South America, ect.)
2. For $25 you can gut the old module housing, and use the connectors to wire up a 'John Strenk Stealth HEI'.
Since the HEI module is used to switching 12 volts without a resistor, the factory Jeep wiring w/resistor is a snap for even the discount cheap versions!
Junk Yard Genius.com 'Stealth HEI Page
3. Replace with a 50 state legal CDI module.
(CDI, Capacitive Discharge Ignition)
CDI will give you 500% to 1,000% more USEABLE Spark Energy right off the bat because of how it works...
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/ford/IMAGES/MSDstandAlone02.gif
This diagram says, 'Small Red to Painless 'Ign' wire'....
Ignore that.
Small red wire to Factory module 'Two Wire Connector' 'Red' wire connection,
Or use this, (the 'Red & White' wire connector on the right is the only one you will use.)
Summit SUM-850520 - Summit® Ford Duraspark Ignition Adapter Wiring Harnesses - summitracing.com
There are a couple of VERY good things to recommend the 'Stealth HEI' conversion.
(Not an 'Upgrade' since there are downsides, that makes it a conversion, not an UPGRADE, which there are NO down sides to.)
One is you can find the GM HEI modules in ANY junkyard!
You can find replacment modules in ANY discount parts store.
The modules are CHEAP and reliable (the rest of the HEI distributor isn't...).
The modules have some GLARING FLAWS, but they are cheap, plentiful, and reliable, and that recommends them over the 'Import' modules that are 'Factory Replacements'.
The MSD CDI module is an UPGRADE in every sense of the word, I've run mine for over 20 years with ZERO problems,
BUT,
They are fairly expensive, so most people will 'Do Without' while they are off for service if something happens,
AND,
You can't get one out of every junk yard, car lot, or discount place that might be open after dark on a Sunday night!
With the 'Replacment' 'Import' modules failing one right after another,
And Quality 'Replacment' modules costing $80-$100...
The $130 for a Summit CDI isn't a far stretch...
On the other hand, some people don't want to fork over the $80 to $100 for a USA made module,
And the $30 imports just KEEP failing,
For them, the $25 worth of parts that make up the 'Stealth HEI' is one heck of a deal!
The 'Survivalist' bunch like the stealth HEI deal too,
Since you can run EITHER the factory style module, or the GM style module,
No modifications the the vehicle harness, so you can switch back and forth to your hearts content!
AND,
That gives them about an UNLIMITED supply of 'Backups' when they scavenge the junkyards!
Rollbar
New member
Thanks JH. I have had the MSD6 on my '79 & loved it. When I got married long ago my wife car (Buick) had the module in/under the dizzy if I can remember & it would get hot, needless to say I ended up changing out three before I got ride of the car & that was back in '81. I hated to get stranded. One thing, I see people use this on the 258, the same can be done for the 360 I assume, correct? Sorry, I just woke up.
Similar threads
