TJ's Rear Brakes...
- Thread starter Ludsjeep
- Start date
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
The only thing that comes to mind even though you posted there is no drag on the brake drums is if the wheel bearings are somewhat worn the drums could be riding on the lower edge since axles are off center . Did you notice any excessive play on the axle hub that will cause excessive run out ? Try pulling the drums off and see if any wear is on the corners of the brake shoes inconsistant with the rest of the brake shoes . Also , if you can move the axle hub and the movement is noticeable , the axle bearings will probably need replacement.
Ludsjeep
New member
Thanks, will reopen brakes and have a look at bearings. Bearings a big job?
Ludsjeep
New member
Another question, would the smell of the shoes still be in presence with a bad bearing?
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
Axle bearings shouldn't be expensive . You will need to open the differential cover and drain the gear oil . Unpleasant smell but good to flush differential. Rotate the differential case until you see a 12 point bolt on the side of the case opposite of the ring gear . I think it is a 5/16 " ? Get a good grip on it , you don't want to strip it . Remove this bolt ( it's more of a pin with short threads ) but do not rotate the case after its removal or the thrust gears and thrust washers and side gears will fall out of place . They are a wear item and wear in a pattern and should remain in their place . Next remove the long pin that runs through the thrust gears and washers . Try to position the case so the long pin will come out toward the bottom of the differential carrier on its bottom edge where the gear oil is spilling out so that the window of the differential case is exposed for you to work on easier. Next , after the long pin is removed , you can push in on each axle to expose the "C" clips that hold each axle in. They may fall out or need persuasion with a screw driver. Now you can remove each axle shaft . Brake parts do not need to be disassembled but may need to be cleaned afterwards . You will need a special axle bearing puller that you can rent from autozone. Remove the axle seals from each side ( have replacements , very inexpensive) and pull the axle bearings. Take note to the depth the bearings are seated in the axle tubes and seat the new bearings to the same depth. Install new seals and reinstall axle shafts. Take care not to drag axle shafts on new seals or inner seals. Wet new seals with light coat of axle lubricant. Make certain axle shaft splines align to side gears. Reinstall "C" clips and pull axle shafts outward and reinstall long pin . Make certain the hole the pin screw goes through is aligned for pin screw to engage through the long pin. Add loctite to pin screw threads and tighten but not over tight. Replace rear inspection cover with silicone . Refill axle to proper level and wash brake parts with brake cleaner. Dirty job but not too bad . Hope this helps. Greg
Oh , the smell of the brake shoes would still be present even if axle bearings have some wear. Only if gear oil is leaking past seals will to that . Hopefully the brake shoes are not chamfered indicating wear of axle bearings and save time and money.
Oh , the smell of the brake shoes would still be present even if axle bearings have some wear. Only if gear oil is leaking past seals will to that . Hopefully the brake shoes are not chamfered indicating wear of axle bearings and save time and money.
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Ludsjeep
New member
Tardy getting back. Turns out problem was high spots on shoes. Sanded down shoes as well as inside of drums lightly. Problem solved.
stevesjeep
New member
change the calipers...chrysler uses ceramic puck that stick when pushed back in. rebuilt calipers use a steel puck. Replaced the pads on my 2001 dakota in nov. had the problem until the weather turned cold and when it changed back, same problem. Changed the calipers and problem went away.
Ludsjeep
New member
New drums, hardware and cylinders. Brakes performing as they should after the light sanding of shoes and drums...
J Smith
New member
There is a very good chance that you have a pinched brake line going to the the rear. When you back off the brakes and everything free-wheels on the jack, you think everything is fine. But when you step on the brakes, the brakes applies but can't properly back off due to the fluid not flowing backward. This can be hard to find, but going by what you describe, that would be my suspicion.
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
Am happy that the worst case scenario was not the case and an easy employed fix did achieve success. Nothing wrong with a brake line inspection to confirm if a pinch did not find its way onto a line . If all is well since your last post and still is , I'm happy too. Good job !
Dragon5126
New member
Since you are pulling the axles, I'd make a run to the local bone yard, and find a Grand Cherokee of the same year and pull the rear disk brakes. and all associated hardware, should not cost more than a few bills. Replace your rear drums with this. Make sure you grab the Ebrake parts as well since they are drum on this setup. It is well worth the conversion, and since there is no real wear on the ebrake/parking brake when you convert to disk, the brake is more solid when set, stays in adjustment and is much less problematical, and the standard rear brake service is simple disk brake work.
Oh well, I see I'm too late... none the less its good info to keep on hand
Oh well, I see I'm too late... none the less its good info to keep on hand
Ludsjeep
New member
No never too late. Actually spent time this morning in a Pick and Pull. No Wranglers but a lot of Cherokees. I know where you are coming from speaking of converting to disc brakes, but I am Old School and love to keep things pretty much stock. Ya, brakes are still on mark and doing as they should...
Dragon5126
New member
this was actually an option that was available if that makes any difference
cougarlasch
New member
maybe the master cylinder holding fluid on the rear brakes. the residual check valve. if they get hot check the rear to see if its dragging and if so crack the line at the master for the rears and see if it undrags.
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