Towing help needed

mikep

New member
Ok some advise would be helpful here. I want to tow my 99 Wrangler behind my new F150 4x4 and wondering from any experience what is the best setup.
A tow bar, kind, capacity any concerns I should have???
A car dolly for front wheels??
Sorry no trailer is being considered due to cost and my ability to backup which was learned from a boating experience.
Any Ideas or concerns are more them appreciated.:???:
 

You don't want to use a dolly without disconnecting driveshafts. The owner's manual goes into detail on not using a dolly and how to properly flat-tow.

I would go with a good towbar. If you're going to flat-tow often it would be worth going through a camper supply shop for the towbar and to wire the jeep to use the stock taillights. I used a magnetic taillight kit as I don't flat-tow very often.
 
Thanks I'm already wired just wonderiing about a good tow bar that people are happy with. I do think the towing brackets should be drilled and fixed to the jeep bumber. :???:
 
I have seen where they mount to the bumper,but they are using the bumper bolts that are attached to the frame.
 

My buddy installed lock-outs on rear his rear axles to avoid dropping the driveshafts. Hauls his rig out west with is truck on a tow bar. I'll ask him about it if your interested.
 
I flat tow my rig behind our motor home all the time. Here's my setup:


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Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow Bar - it is a ball in socket design that incorporates a spherical joint instead of the traditional bolted together flex joint. This design reduces wear points and allows for an extremely strong and durable attachment between the tow rig and the towed vehicle.

Blue Ox BX1120 Baseplate - modified slightly to work with ARB front bumper but super strong and secure attaching point for tow bar.

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Blue Ox KarGard Vehicle Protector - super light weight and effective at protecting front of Jeep, headlights and windshield from damage

Magnetic Tow Lights - although I'm seriously considering having the Jeep lights hard-wired for this.

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Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Proportional Braking System - a super easy to use and effective breaking system. Required by law in many states.

Which ever way you go, shop around. I found prices on tow bars and accessories to vary widely.
 
OK... so that's how they got around all of the "anti-toad" laws - just make something that pushes on the brake pedal. I was going to try to install a remote vacuum over hydraulic unit to activate the brakes but I never did. I bet that thing even has a breakaway sensor in case the hitch fails. Guess I've been out of camping for a while :lol: . - John
 

OK... so that's how they got around all of the "anti-toad" laws - just make something that pushes on the brake pedal. I was going to try to install a remote vacuum over hydraulic unit to activate the brakes but I never did. I bet that thing even has a breakaway sensor in case the hitch fails. Guess I've been out of camping for a while :lol: . - John

Yep, the brake away unit is in the lower right corner. I've towed my Jeep with and without this unit and I must say I really prefer to have the added braking power. What I really like is (1) it is proportional, applies just what is necessary, and (2) the sensitivity and pressure can be user adjusted.

Albeit expensive but well worth the investment, in my opinion, for anyone that plans on doing frequent towing.
 
if you think backing up a 18ft trailer is difficult, don't even bother with the other two options. going in reverse when flat towing is misserable, the front tires will automatically flop to one side and make any rearward manuver a PITA. Dolly's are also hard to back up due to the wheel length. the larger the trailer, believe it or not, the easier it is to back up. I tow regularly with a 20ft flat deck beaver tail that is a wet dream to back up, very predictable, not very sensitive to wheel imputs. the snow mobile trailer on the other hand is the exact opposite.

By the time you purchase all the stuff listed above, you could have a real nice trailer that won't be a hassle to back up, and won't wear the heck out of your tires.
 
if you think backing up a 18ft trailer is difficult, don't even bother with the other two options. going in reverse when flat towing is misserable, the front tires will automatically flop to one side and make any rearward manuver a PITA. Dolly's are also hard to back up due to the wheel length. the larger the trailer, believe it or not, the easier it is to back up. I tow regularly with a 20ft flat deck beaver tail that is a wet dream to back up, very predictable, not very sensitive to wheel imputs. the snow mobile trailer on the other hand is the exact opposite.

By the time you purchase all the stuff listed above, you could have a real nice trailer that won't be a hassle to back up, and won't wear the heck out of your tires.

To reinforce what jps4jeep says here, the Blue Ox Safety Sheets for all models of theri tow bars state: Do Not Back Up when towing. Damage to both vehicles and towing system may occur.
 

Correct, your not supposed to back up when flat towing (tow bar) but you can in a pinch, but it sucks. Your supposed to get out, disconnect, and move one vehicle, then the other then reconnect.
 
Hey Phil thanks this is the info I was looking for

Glad I could share, even though mine is certainly not the end-all solution to towing your rig.

Of the 3 possible ways to transport, I eliminated the tow dolly because it was not recommended in the Owner's Manual and the work-around of removing drive shaft(s) didn't sound practical when hooking up in freezing/raining/snowing weather or in the darkness of night.

Trailering your rig is a certainly viable idea if (1) you don't mind adding the additional weight of a trailer to and/or don't exceed your Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR), and (2) you have a place to unhook and park the trailer at your destination, as well as at home. Many RV parks have pull-through spaces but you must un-hook your toad. There would not be space for both a trailer and towed vehicle.

For my type of usage the tow bar has proven to be a safe and practical way to tow my rig. After about a half dozen or so trips now I am totally satisfied with the performance of this set-up.
 

I flat tow also . Use blue ox aventa . And instead of buying high dollar brackets . I made some at work . Bolted through the front of bumper and then made 1/2/ in flat stock treaded on inside of frame tube , then used lock washers and lock nut , and put transfer in nuetral and trans in 5 th gear , have no issues. Pulling 99 sahara with 33's/ 4 in susenstion lift .
 
if you think backing up a 18ft trailer is difficult, don't even bother with the other two options. going in reverse when flat towing is misserable, the front tires will automatically flop to one side and make any rearward manuver a PITA. Dolly's are also hard to back up due to the wheel length. the larger the trailer, believe it or not, the easier it is to back up. I tow regularly with a 20ft flat deck beaver tail that is a wet dream to back up, very predictable, not very sensitive to wheel imputs. the snow mobile trailer on the other hand is the exact opposite.

By the time you purchase all the stuff listed above, you could have a real nice trailer that won't be a hassle to back up, and won't wear the heck out of your tires.

Will have to agree with jps. I drive truck and can put a 53ft trailer just about anywhere you want it. Now if you want a good laugh watch me try and get my boat in the water! I have ended up sideways on the boat ramp more than once. I tow the CJ7 flat behind motorhome with a home made tow bar. I have a full floating rear end with Toyota hubs installed, so just turn everything to free and it's a 4 wheel trailer. It doesn't back up much without the front wheels turning. The auxiliary brake systems are required by most states now and without it your insurance probably isn't worth the paper it's written on. Once you drive with one you'll never tow without it again.
 

Tow.. have no choice, my jeep is not registered, and in my state is no where near being legal to operate on the road. so towing to and from trails is a must.


Like I mentioned before and I will agree.. longer the trailer, the easiest it is.
Funny this came thread came back up, I had to tow my log splitter t omy Father in laws two weeks ago, from pintel to axle the splitter is maybe 5-6 feet long, trying to back it in with my long bed extended cab pickup :eek:

I looked like a towing newb to the max... the worse part is, I still have the cap on the back of the truck (use in the winter) and the trailer is not wide nor tall enough for me to see in the mirrors. God it was miserable.
 
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