1076079
Webers are great, good choice. 32/36 or 38/38? Low maintenance and simple to tune.
I picked mine up on Ebay for cheap(used), and figured it would be missing parts and would need a kit put in it, but that wasn't the case. It was simple.
I just have one word for you, "Vacuum". I'm not sure in your case, but vacuum lines can be a b&*^% to figure out. I would suggest stripping out any that aren't necessary. Since you are changing the carb most of the other emmission controls won't be functional anyway (consequently you'll fail any smog tests if you are required to get them). Make sure you understand which vac hoses do what before you start pulling though.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/
Make sure the PCV valve is connected to the manifold and functional. Did you get the K&N Filter too? Make sure the distributor vacuum advance is plugged into a port above the throttle plates. Make sure you get a good seal at the base and in the adapter plate.
Vacuum leaks suck when you go to tune the carb.
If your engine is worn out like mine, it'll be hard to tell if you gained much. Although mine quit hesitating and just plain ran better afterwards.
Here's a good web page on carb tuning. It's set up for Holley's but I got a lot of good knowledge from it.
http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
Also, If you haven't already, do the "Nutter" Bypass since the computer is out of the loop anyway.
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/jn-ignition99/
Good luck...
edited by: Jeepskate, Jul 13, 2003 - 02:45 PM[addsig]
