Weber 32 36 dgev carburator

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Can anyone tell me what I've done and more importantly, what I need to do? I have a Weber 32 36 dgev carburetor on a 1982 CJ 4.2l. The other day it would not start so I poured some gasoline down the carburetor and when I did I poured way too much down it. Now it will not start. I have taken it apart and tried cleaning it with carb cleaner but it still will not start. It will race, backfire (visible fire in the carb) and die. Can someone tell me what I need to do to get it running again? Carb kit? What else?

 

[69jeepcj]

well, I dont know anything about your carb, but... I did have a 82 4cyl that I started having carb problems with. I didnt know a thing back then and was at work telling some of the guys what it was doing when one of them said I know whats wrong with it and that he could go outside and fix it in about 2 mins. I said sure, There is a fuse under the dash that controls something on the carb and it was blown, he replaced it and all was good. I couldnt believe it was that simple. Not saying this is your problem, but is similar and may be worth a look at your fuses under the dash. My jeep would hardly start and whan it did it ran terrible and blew black smoke out the back and the fuse cured it.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Well…..You’ve come to right place my friend. First pull your plugs and check for fouling, probably fouled. Get them cleaned up or replaced, this will make life easier down the road for diagnosing the real problem. Second, be certain you actually have spark at the plugs. Third, confirm that you have fuel flowing down the throat while cranking the engine. We can work on the set up later after we get it running.
Weber’s are a great upgrade, but require the proper installation/ set up. The number one problem I see next to improper installation is running to rich. Are you still running a fuel recirc. line back to the tank? Do you have a fuel regulator (set for about 4 psi)? Are all the vacuum lines connected?
Can you post a couple of photos of your current set up?

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Thank you so much! This is a weekend project so it may take me a little time to get back with you but Im gonna check everything you mentioned...put new plugs in and go from there. I put the weber on about 5 years ago and it has never caused me problems until now (poured to much gas down it). I will also put some pics up as soon as I can and hopefully that will help. I have never had a regulator, would you recommend I use/get one? As far as the vacuum lines go I'm assuming everything is good as it was all working a couple weeks ago. Maybe you can tell me more when I get the pics up. Thank you!

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

Ahhhh....The Jeep weekend project, if we only got paid to do we'd all have tons of money :funny:. So looking at the photo's, let me ask a couple of basic questions. How long ago did you do the CRT (Juicebox?) iginition upgrade? The fuel pump looks new? Same time frame as your problems? Looking at the first photo, the bowl vent (on the left which has the hose with the 90 deg fitting on it), where does that run to? Also (in the same photo) the fuel inlet block, the fuel comes in on the right of the "Y", is the left side plugged? It's probably the photo but I don't see the plug. Speaking of the inlet, go ahead and remove (unthread) the brass plug between the two inlets (edited.... forgot we are working on a 32/36), there should be a filter screen behind it that may be clogged.


I see you have the EGR valve vacuum line capped at the diaphram. You may want to remove and cap off that system (if you're emissions exempt). You can simply unbolt the two bolts, unthread (or break off depending on which EGR valave you have) the vaccum diaphram and push rod. You can make a block off plate with sheet metal or even a flattened out piece of soda can. Just put your new plate between the gasket and EGR base, bolt back up. Just make sure that you reconnect the "S" tube that connects to two manifolds or cap thoses as well. This not likely the root of your evils, but it will cause idle/performance issues with your Weber set up.


You do have some minor plumbing issues the current way the Weber is installed. Eventually after we get it running again, you may want to consider a fuel psi regulator and perhaps even an electric fuel pump. The Weber carb (down draft models, like your 32/36) work best at 4 psi and a steady fuel flow. Although the electric pump is not required, your mech. pump causes the fuel to surge with each stroke of the diaphram pump. Also, you may want to ethier remove (cap off) or modify the fuel return line. You can modify it by installing a quality "3 way" fuel regulator (or PRV). Holley makes a very reliable one as does Weber (but I'll pay for the one from Weber!). I have photos somewhere of the 32/36 that was on my 85 CJ, I'll look and post them for some ideas.


Regardless, don't worry about the mods I mentioned in the later part of this posting for now. Just focus on getting it running again.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

I found a couple I posted here last year helping someone with a similiar problem.

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Oh so true! At least I for the most part, enjoy working on the Jeep it's all the other cars that drive me crazy! Ok, Lets see...I did the "Juicebox" upgrade about a year ago and it ran the best it's ever ran after I did it. I think that was a good upgrade. The fuel pump is fairly new, probably 3-4 months old. I don't believe it is the problem as it is "new" and just because it was running a few weeks ago but then again, it definitely could be...IDK. The hose with the 90 deg fitting goes to the charcoal canister. On that note, I used to live in an emissions exempt state, which is when i removed a bunch of stuff and unfortunately do not have anymore. I do not live there anymore and so, at some point in time I will have to address that issue (Howell FUel injection)? Umm... the fuel block I am hoping is plugged but just went out and looked and do not see or feel a plug there. I would assume if its not plugged fuel would spew out, which it does not.
I ultimately want this set up correctly but am with you, I would just like to get it running then, with your help, get it done.
I am going to put new plugs in this weekend, i will remove the brass plug (between inlets) check for clogging and Possibly remove the egr and save it, just in case. Anything else I should do before trying to fire it up again?

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Ok...maybe dumb question. On the regulator pics I see the fuel line coming in with the filter and gauge on it and then assume it goes straight through to the inlet on the carb. My question is where does the other line go?

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

I agree....If it were me (and has been, many times in the past), I would put my focus on getting it up and running again. So let's start with the basics, are we getting power, spark, and fuel flow.

I asked about the upgrades because it’s sometimes the other things that lead to the greater thing. As for the optional right side inlet, I believe some of the newer Weber’s (Redline) where capped or plugged internally? But you’re correct in that if it weren’t, fuel would be flowing out, providing we are getting fuel from the pump. But one of my concerns would be why do I need to prime the carb with additional fuel? Maybe I’m not getting fuel to the carb or no (or poor) spark in the combustion chamber?

As for the set up in the photos I posted, the fuel flows into the regulator (in this case, it’s really a pressure return valve) to a gauge, then filter and into the carb. The smaller line from the bottom is the return line back to the tank for the excess fuel. You have a return line on your Jeep (I see it in the photo), if you look at your fuel filter it has one line in and two out. On the outlet, one goes to the carb and the other back to your tank. Weber’s don’t operate optimally with the stock Jeep fuel set up, but it will work. Unlike a conventional carb which relies on a higher pressure, the Weber is designed to perform with a consistent, steady low pressure / high volume fuel supply. Many Weber set up’s don’t have a return, but do have a regulator. A straight feed to the inlet will work; it just needs to be low pressure.

As for your emissions, once we get the Weber to perform properly, this will not be such a concern. With the proper tuning of the carb, the increased performance from the JuiceBox upgrade along with the catalytic converter (do you still have that on the exhaust?) so should be able to pass emission testing. The Howell or Holley (or whoevers) fuel injection will not necessarily help your emissions and they are expensive. TBI still requires the same (or similiar) emissions equipment and it will still need to proper set up.

 

[69jeepcj]

just a sugestion here, policemonkey will know more about your carb than me. Have you checked the acclerator pump for a hole, and or blown power valve in the carb. Im not even sure you have a power valve in that carb. But those could explain some of the symptoms in your first post.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

just a sugestion here, policemonkey will know more about your carb than me. Have you checked the acclerator pump for a hole, and or blown power valve in the carb. Im not even sure you have a power valve in that carb. But those could explain some of the symptoms in your first post.

Thanks Bro......... Good looking out! Yes, the Weber has acclerator pump but no true power valve on 32/36 (larger models have the equalvent though) and that's a great idea. But in this case (and with all Weber down drafts and most other models), there is an separte "idle" circuit which is not dependent on the acclerator pump at start up and idle. It could be some other internal issues, but I want to confirm the fuel flow first.

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Thanks Bro......... Good looking out! Yes, the Weber has acclerator pump but no true power valve on 32/36 (larger models have the equalvent though) and that's a great idea. But in this case (and with all Weber down drafts and most other models), there is an separte "idle" circuit which is not dependent on the acclerator pump at start up and idle. It could be some other internal issues, but I want to confirm the fuel flow first.

Ok, so here's what I've got or where I'm at or...whatever I removed all the spark plugs and fuel line going into the carb from the fuel pump. Turned it over a few times to clear the cylinders and to check spark and fuel. I do have spark at all the cylinders (plugs) and fuel is definitely getting to the carburetor from the fuel pump. I've replaced all the spark plugs so, they are now new. Tried starting and...nothing, just turned over and over.
Something I noticed and my question, is the only time i saw fuel going into the, sorry don't know the term, (engine/manifold) from the accelerator pump jets (?) was when my wife was pressing the accelerator peddle (it would squirt fuel down into the engine/manifold when she pressed on the peddle) fuel was NOT being delivered while she was just turning the engine over...or trying to start it. Is that the way it's supposed to work?
Let me know what I should do next! And again thank you so much for you help!

 

[69jeepcj]

with a machanical fuel pump it should pump gas when turning the engine over. So, when she turns the engine over, gas does not come out the fuel line? sounds like bad fuel pump. Id get second opion from policemonkey though.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

With a properly tuned down draft carb (like the 32/36), you normally will not see fuel flow down the venturi’s during start up or low idle. They have their own low speed (idle) circuit that is below the throttle plate and can’t be seen without opening the linkage (throttle plates) at least 1/3 of the way. This explains why you saw fuel spraying while your wife was depressing the pedal, you activated all three circuits. Unfortunately, I’m at work and can’t scan diagrams in from the manual, but I did find the attached diagraph which illustrates the low speed circuit (however it is from a different model, but the principle is the same).
At this point, we know we are getting fuel up to the carb, have spark and that at least two of the circuits are supplying fuel. Have you adjusted the idle screws in any way? It sounds like the low speed circuit is closed. Regardless, using the proper sized screw driver, gently close (clockwise) the idle mixture screw until it bottoms out (this screw is on the base to the right facing the carb and it’s at an angle). Next you want to unscrew it 1 ½ turns. Then unscrew the idle speed screw (just above the idle mixture screw, perpendicular to it and has a spring around the screw shaft that touches the primary linkage) so it is not touching the linkage. Now screw that in 2 full turns. This is your starting base for a new install (or trouble shooting in our case).
If this does not at least cause some sort of fire up during starting, next we be removing the carb, disassembling it and looking for obstructions.
These links are helpful:

1. store.cip1.com/.../graphics/00000001/​XXX-WEBER-32-36DFEV.pdf
2. http://carburetion.net/pages/troubleshooting.aspx
3. 
4. 

 

[69jeepcj]

Ok, I misread the op,s last reply. thought he had fuel line unhooked and no fuel was coming out from the pump. trying to learn some as I read, so I hope you dont think I am questioning your responses.

 

[PoliceMonkey161]

No....Not at all Brother! Different ideas and prespectives is what inspires creative thinking. I'm certainly not an expert in this (or any other) subject. I value your input....... Helps me think by considering other points/views!

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

with a machanical fuel pump it should pump gas when turning the engine over. So, when she turns the engine over, gas does not come out the fuel line? sounds like bad fuel pump. Id get second opion from policemonkey though.

Thanks 69! I appreciate your help! You understood correctly no fuel while she was turning over ONLY when she pressed on the gas peddle. The fuel pump is only a few months old but has a lifetime warranty so I can easily replace it., thanks again!

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

With a properly tuned down draft carb (like the 32/36), you normally will not see fuel flow down the venturi’s during start up or low idle. They have their own low speed (idle) circuit that is below the throttle plate and can’t be seen without opening the linkage (throttle plates) at least 1/3 of the way. This explains why you saw fuel spraying while your wife was depressing the pedal, you activated all three circuits. Unfortunately, I’m at work and can’t scan diagrams in from the manual, but I did find the attached diagraph which illustrates the low speed circuit (however it is from a different model, but the principle is the same).
At this point, we know we are getting fuel up to the carb, have spark and that at least two of the circuits are supplying fuel. Have you adjusted the idle screws in any way? It sounds like the low speed circuit is closed. Regardless, using the proper sized screw driver, gently close (clockwise) the idle mixture screw until it bottoms out (this screw is on the base to the right facing the carb and it’s at an angle). Next you want to unscrew it 1 ½ turns. Then unscrew the idle speed screw (just above the idle mixture screw, perpendicular to it and has a spring around the screw shaft that touches the primary linkage) so it is not touching the linkage. Now screw that in 2 full turns. This is your starting base for a new install (or trouble shooting in our case).
If this does not at least cause some sort of fire up during starting, next we be removing the carb, disassembling it and looking for obstructions.
These links are helpful:


[*] store.cip1.com/.../graphics/00000001/​XXX-WEBER-32-36DFEV.pdf
[*]http://carburetion.net/pages/troubleshooting.aspx
[*]<img src="http://www.jeepz.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16508"/>
[*]<img src="http://www.jeepz.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16509"/>
[*]

Thanks again! I have adjusted/set the idle mixture screws (one on each side) correct? As you mentioned above as well as the idle speed screw as you mentioned. I am however going to try it again just to see what happens. I have a feeling I will be removing the carb, disassembling it and looking for obstructions. Before doing this should I order a carb kit or anything else or do you think the internal parts will be ok?
Thank you!

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Ok, I misread the op,s last reply. thought he had fuel line unhooked and no fuel was coming out from the pump. trying to learn some as I read, so I hope you dont think I am questioning your responses.

No sorry, it was "hooked" to the carb. Gas WAS coming out while turning over the engine when "unhooked" from the carb.

 

[CAJayhawkJeeper]

Ok, I set it or adjusted it as you recommended. If I try starting it without pumping the gas pedal it doesn't do anything. If i pump the gas pedal ~8-10 times it will rev up real fast, backfire or make a weird noise and die. I assuming it's just burning the fuel I just put down it.(by pumping the gas pedal) then dying. Tell me what to do next....remove the carb? Do I need parts? Thanks!