weber carb issues

1069924

If it is running good I wouldn't change anything. As for the nutter bypass it also eliminates the ignition module which is also causes trouble. Even with the juice box and carb I still had a little heitation until I did the nutter then it went away.[addsig]
 
1069929

If it is running good I wouldn't change anything.

LOL! C'mon... you know that the motto around here is "If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!"

I can see how the ported vacuum would be of benefit to the distributor seeing how its a variable signal, and I'd be interested to see how you have your vacuum wired up for comparison.
Switching that over would be easy, i'd just also want to visualize how the EGR, CTO, and evap canister would be hooked up through the manifold port. If the ported vacuum is speed variable, and the manifold vacuum is constant, how would that affect the EGR and canister purge signals?
I don't fully understand how these emissions systems work, but what i do know is that if the EGR isnt hooked up right, the exaust stinks to high hell! :-D

As for the nutter thing, i might try that this weekend. By reading the tech article on it, I didn't think it applied to weber setups which is why i never bothered with it. :p [addsig]
 

1070020

Got the Weber installed!!!
Funny thing is my Engine Temp Gauge now works!!!
Go figure

Need some help though
The Idle Mixture Screw. Instructions say to turn clockwise till engine RPMs fall off, then counterclockwise till RPMs fall off again, then turn 1/2.
I turned clockwise and the RPMS never decreased, then turned counterclockwise and the RPMS didn't decrease.
Is this a problem, or should I just leave it the way it is.

[addsig]
 
1070027

The rpms really don't increase or decrease. You kinda have to listen for the best idle. It is best to use a tachometer if you have one. Your suppose to screw it all the way in then 2 turns back out. Then adjust in 1/4 increments until the idle is smooth. [addsig]
 
1070344

i like the weber idea, but what can i do to keep my jeep emission legal? and get rid of that gemlin sitting on top of my intake manifold :-? [addsig]
 

1070348

Okay, progress update:

I have recently done some re-routing under the hood based on some of the suggestions so far:

I've replaced the PCV intake hose replaced with breather filter and capped the nozzle in the bottom of the filter. Quite a bit simpler looking and less messy.

based on This Diagram I have reversed the ported vacuum and manifold vacuum so that the distributor is connected to the ported vacuum (vacuum varies with throttle) and the CTO is connected to the manifold vacuum (vacuum constant)

Re-tuned my timing on it and i now get smooooooth acceleration when i drop the hammer. No more sags.

On a side note, I've done a little research on the CTO and i'm kinda unclear on a few things.
For starters i know that its basically a heat actuvated switch that is closed when the engine is cool (thereby restricting vaccum to purge canister and EGR) and opens when engine is warm (allowing purge signal and EGR return)
Now what i DONT understand is:
a) is it better to have this connected to ported or manifold? I figure if this pressure is regulated by the CTO, then manifold would be ideal because it is constant...
b) What is up with the CTO?!? I can't find ANY information on how it works.
All i can find is that its a switch thats controlled by a thermostat in the manifold. Now what i cant find is if there is any significance to which ports have what function, or if they are all the same (on or off)

(oh btw 4x4fish, i think that its only california has the restrictions on using the weber... But i could be wrong. )

edited by: chinard, Jun 07, 2003 - 02:05 PM[addsig]
 
1070364

Jay89--- Thanks for the help with my earlier questions.

Chinard -- About the CTO... Not only is it regulated by throttle, the engine coolant temp also regulates it. Going over my Haynes manual, it says the engine needs to be atleast 115 degrees F/and the engine at 1500 rpms for there to be vacuum.
I don't really know. With the engine just started, approximate 60 deg F, I pulled off my vacuum hose from the EGR and performed a vacuum test (don't have a vacuum tester so I use my trusted "plug hose with thumb" method. There was vacuum. My CTO is currently routed to ported vacuum, so obviously it's not working correctly.

Question: Just installed the Weber, took the jeep out for its first post-install road test. When I stepped on the gas, it would lag, and I could hear some serious suction from the carb. Took off the air filter with the car running, looked down past the choke plate and on the driver side pipe of the venturi cluster, there was no fuel being pulled in. The pipe on the passenger side was pulling fuel fine. Has anyone experienced this? Should I pull out the venturi cluster and blast it with carb cleaner as the suggest on http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html or do you think it could be that the carb is not manufactured correctly? I just bought is last week so I believe that it's under some sort of warantee.


[addsig]
 
1070687

In responce to your question about only one side pulling in fuel, my weber also does that. I wonder if it is supposed to do that or if it was a defect that was mass produced? mine also sounds like its getting major air, and where's the power? maybe thats just the way its supposed to run. My fuel pressure reg. helped alot though.[addsig]
 

1070693

I believe only one port is supposed to pull fuel under normal operation until you floor it or your at full throttle then both ports should pull fuel. Mine also has fuel coming out of 1 port.[addsig]
 
1070704

Just spoke to someone at Redline Weber. The 32/36 DGEV has two Jets... One Jet is constantly on and pulls fuel. The second jet pulls fuel under throttle. There are two different settings on the Main Jet and Secondary Jet.

Jeep90, how much was the fuel regulator, and where is it located?
At idle, my Jeep will fluctuate from 600 to 1000 RPMs and I suspect it's the fuel delivery.
[addsig]
 
1070708

picked mine up at auto zone for $19.99 most auto parts stores will carry them though. Its adjustable and I have mine set at two. that was the recommended setting for an i6 2 barrell.[addsig]
 

1070715

Jeep90, the fuel pressure regulator, is that the fuel pump?
[addsig]
 
1070730

no its a small device that i installed between the fuel filter and the carb. it just regulates how much fuel the carb receives.if your pump is pushing 10 psi and your carb is only meant to take 3psi. that is where the fuel pressure reg. steps in and limits the amount of fuel it receives.[addsig]
 

1070922

I've had the Weber 32-36 on for a few rides... Now I'm wondering whether I should have ordered the Weber 38 instead.
The best bang for the buck is still the Juicebox TFI. I highly recommend it to all 258 owners.
[addsig]
 
1071043

jeep90 -- check out driveajeep.com. It's a company called Caped Conversions...
Or you can check out the How To Section on this website. It's the ignition upgrade.

[addsig]
 

1075653

Anyone know what the heck I should do with the Pulse Air Hoses that go to the Exhaust? The guy before me that connected the Two with a T connector.
Also I installed a fuel pressure regulator, but for some reason it was restricting all gas flow to the Carb, so I removed it.

Rich[addsig]
 
I just installed my weber last night. The only thing i am debating on is this: I can either hook up my egrand cto to the pulse air on the carb OR just say screw it and cap them. Any ideas? With them disconnected right now i do not hear any pinging and it runs good. Will this hurt my engine in the long run? Thanks
 
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