welding rear diff

highklass

New member
1069727

is it possible to weld the rear diff. ive heard some stories but never thoght of asking about a jeep diff.
and for the front too.
if anyone got links pleze post. they are stock on mine but any info would be great [addsig]
 

1069746

Bounty???? where ya at my man?.... this one's all you[addsig]
 
1069767

Thanks, S :cool: I've got the front and rear stock diffs welded in my '95 4banger. Been like that for over a year, very strong and predictable onroad and off. I now run 31" swamper radials on the trail and 32" BFG MT's on the street. Climbs like a billy goat :lol: [addsig]
 
1069778

How bad does it wear your tires? I know this sounds like a silly question but inquiring minds want to know. Locker are just so dang exspencive and I want to loose this open diff deal so bad. What are the down sides to this mod. I can see the advantages with you carring that front wheel like a pro. Now for the next question direction to make this mod. thanks in advance my good sir. Tug[addsig]
 

1069781

I don't think it wears the tires that badly. It will wear the rears quicker than the front, so regular rototion is a must. It will not cause an individual tire to wear unevenly.

You have to have a method of manually disengaging the pass. side axle shaft on the front if you are going to do this in a YJ. Otherwise turning in 4hi or 4lo can be a bear. I make everything but the tightest turns on the trail in 4lo, and disengage the pass. side shaft for the really tight ones.

Welding just the rear will improve offroad performance, so the front can be done later. Not really an option in Tj's unless you convert to manual hubs.[addsig]
 
1069784

How well does it handle on the roads while turning a corner in the rain? I did this to my old car back in highschool and every corner I took in the rain, the rear end would want to kick out on me. Even in the dry, the rear end would bounce because of one tire always spinning on sharp corners. Do you have this problem?[addsig]
 
1069786

I have a cable posilock on my front diff. So I can disengauge the front and run in 2 lo 2 hi 4 lo nad 4 hi. so by unlocking the front hubs I can do this correct. What exactly do I have welded in the rear to manage this? tug[addsig]
 

1069789

Craig, it will chirp around sharp corners, but no hopping. You won't get much chirping because you're running soft Yoko Geolanders, the harder the tire the louder the chirp :lol: Boy the chirping really turns heads when I'm picking my daughter up from daycare, who's this crazy guy squeeling his tires everywhere he goes :-O

Tug, the posilok would be great, same thing mine does with vacuum. On both diffs you weld the spider gears together with a 220 MIG welder. It's usually best to preheat them with an oxy/acet torch first. Don't weld the spiders to the carrier, you may need to replace the spiders someday (not if you weld them good enough). Fill the gaps where each spider gear meshes with the next one, welding the 4 joints and filling it up with metal to make one large mini-spool :-D [addsig]
 
1069791

I have a set of Ford 9" diffs out of an old early 70's Bronco. Thinking to some day go to a spring over but not now. Never hurts to get the items ready and have them on hand though. :-D So I think when I do my lift I will go ahead do the Lincoln Locker deal to at least do the rear, as I will change it out some day any how. Thanks for the advice and ideas. We will see how it all works out. Tug[addsig]
 
1069795

tug, if you want... you can find mini spools on ebay for the 9" for like $30... they do the same thing as welding, but are a solid unit and will not break as easy (as if it breaks easily anyway)... they just pop in place of the spider gears[addsig]
 

1069807

is it possible to get some pics, im just having a hard time to get a mental picture for the spider gear and so on.[addsig]
 
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