XJ slip Yoke question

[TwistedCU]

I have seen some longer than stock slip yokes for sale for 96 and earlier XJ's(http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=234). I thought I heard or read that the newer XJ's already had a longer yoke than the others, which is why I assume the extended ones are listed for the earlier years.

If I by some small miracle have no driveline vibration after installing my 4 1/2" lift, and do not go with a SYE kit, should I be concerned about the possibility of yanking the slip yoke out of the xfer case at full articulation, or is that not as much of an issue with the 97 and later because they have a longer piece?

 

[XJNick]

This place has some nice Jeeps... for a price!

Hi,

I would think that your U-Joints would bind before you were able to pull the slip yoke completely out, but maybe not? My reasoning is that as you pull the yoke out, the angle at the u-joints increases and becomes sharper. :mrgreen:

-Nick :!:

 

[jps4jeep]

Correct Nick! But if there is enough droop in the rear, which in this case I doubt it, cause it would require TC to be air-bourne for a while with a coil over setup in the rear, It can in fact pull completely out of the T-case. Thats why some of the Baja trucks have limit straps for suspension, when they get air, the suspension will be at full droop, and coil overs don't have the limitations of leaf springs. these vehicles generally don't have slip yokes, but rather slip shafts, but still, those can get pulled apart!

 

[balloo93]

I have seen some longer than stock slip yokes for sale for 96 and earlier XJ's(http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=234). I thought I heard or read that the newer XJ's already had a longer yoke than the others, which is why I assume the extended ones are listed for the earlier years.

If I by some small miracle have no driveline vibration after installing my 4 1/2" lift, and do not go with a SYE kit, should I be concerned about the possibility of yanking the slip yoke out of the xfer case at full articulation, or is that not as much of an issue with the 97 and later because they have a longer piece?

The 96+ XJ's had the sealed slip yokes. I don't believe that they are all that much longer, if not any longer at all. The main difference is that if you pulled the yoke out of a 95 or older TC the fluid will run out. The newer ones do not have that issue. They are sealed at the output shaft and the yoke is lubed at the factory and installed.

RE makes a Hanck-N-Tap SYE that is a perfect example. The 95 and older ones are around $200. The 96+ kit is about $100. The difference is that the more expensive one converts the old style housing with to a newer style setup. The newer style kit doesn't need all that extra hardware, basically it just needs the flange to work. These SYE kits require a CV driveshaft.

Some people use the TJ yokes because they are longer than the XJ yoke, but these WILL NOT cure the vibes, as the angles are not corrected. If anything these setups lead themselves to more damage as the yoke is extended further and more prone to smack around on the output shaft.

IMO I'd say if you aren't ready to drop the (approx) $500 bucks for the RE hack-n-tap, then get a TC drop braket and some degreed shims from Rocky Road Outfitters to battle the vibes. The TC drop will help lower the yoke at the TC and the shims will tilt the pinion up slightly to help get better angles on the DS.

If you have a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, you will be more prone to vibration as the pinion is longer than the D35C pinion. I have slighly over (just barely) 3" of lift and I use 4* shims on my 8.25 and have 0 vibes at any speed.

 

[TwistedCU]

wilderness rack on the way...need lights!

IMO I'd say if you aren't ready to drop the (approx) $500 bucks for the RE hack-n-tap, then get a TC drop braket and some degreed shims from Rocky Road Outfitters to battle the vibes. The TC drop will help lower the yoke at the TC and the shims will tilt the pinion up slightly to help get better angles on the DS.

If you have a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, you will be more prone to vibration as the pinion is longer than the D35C pinion. I have slighly over (just barely) 3" of lift and I use 4* shims on my 8.25 and have 0 vibes at any speed.

The 4 1/2" kit I bought has the TC drop kit included and the springs are designed to angle the pinion without shims (sounds good lets see if it works :wink: ). I'm hoping this will be ok, but if need be, I'll get the hack and tap. I'd like to wait a while to do the SYE/driveshaft, and add another inch or two to the lift at that point. If I get vibes it will force my hand to do it sooner.

 

[balloo93]

Sounds like a VERY complete kit. With those two things added, I think you be in good shape.

 

[TwistedCU]

Hell Creek Suspensions. Basically a Rough Country kit with Hell Creek leaf springs. I paid $565 to the door :wink: for a 4.5" kit