YEEAARG!! Need help with torx!!!

Joopin

Super Moderator
1049622

Torx, star screw, whatever this thing is that holds together my whole jeep is called... I can't get them off!! I have the perfect star bit or torx to fit, yet I can only get 2 of the 8 I need to get off. I ordered some windshield light mounts and now I can't put them on! There must be an easier way to get these off... I put the bit in a rachet to get leverage but then I have to be carefull not to strip the head! All I know is I need help!!
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[addsig]
 

1049623

what have you tried?



some suggestions:

-penetrating lubricant - aerosol form, just spray things down

-breaker bar - more leverage, may put a pipe on the end of your ratchet for more power

-tapping the ratchet handle with a hammer - usually the sudden impacts from a hammer is better at breaking tough bolts loose than just yanking on it (the ratchet, not your buddy in your pants).



if you continue to have problems with keeping the bit in the head of the bolt, volunteer a friend to come over and designate him to keep pressure on the head of the ratchet to keep it from coming out.



lastly, when you put it back together, put some grease or anti-seize on the threads to avoid these problems when you take it apart next time.[addsig]
 
1049626

Penetrating lube is your best shot without drastic measures. Be sure to keep the bit perfectly straight or you will tear the tabs out of the inside of the bolt. The second but much more involved solution is to weld a hex head bolt to the head of the torx bolt and use a standard socket to remove that way. I used this method to remove bolts from my seat belt anchors.



Todd[addsig]
 

1049634

Screw extractor may work. I tried to remove my hinges, (got a new frame to install) but ran into the same problem. I don't think I'll be reusing torx when I do get them out.

For me, those torx are a waste of material! If one comes out, SAE goes back in! The rear diff cover is another place to replace the torx! I used 1/4 X 20 SS 3/4" bolts( I believe that's the size) Don't have to worry about NOT being able to removing them now.



Another suggestion, (may have already been said) use some heat on the hinge material to expand it some, not enough to burn the paint! (be reasonable) then tap the stuck torx.

If all else fails, perhape the cuttin torch is an option? (kidding)

[addsig]
 
1049639

1.) Fire up plasma cutter.

2.) With a smooth, continuous motion, run the plasma cutter from the driver's side to the passenger side at

the junction between the windshield frame and the body.

3.) Allow windshield to crash to the floor and shatter. Don't worry, this is supposed to be noisy.

4.) Buy a pair of high-speed goggles.

5.) Grin from ear to ear
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Seriously, though, a length of pipe, a ratchet (sturdy), and a hammer. Have a drill and a tap and dye set

handy if the head snaps off.



Or, if your feeling experimental, Craftsman has a magic bit set that really bite in to the screw head and

thread it out. Let us know if you try that one and it works. I've been thinking about getting a set myself.



Cooper.[addsig]
 
1049660

There is a tool that you can put a socket on the end and you hit it with a hammer. When you hit it with the hammer it turns just a little bit. It has worked wonders for me. [addsig]
 

1049662

what has worked with me was taking that tool star and give it a good couple of hits. Then get a .5 inch ratchet to put on the end ,to give you some leaverage. i broke a cheap star tool that i had bought at a flea market on my 1st try. had to go to sears and buy a good one. to me heating is not good the chance of burnning paint is too risky. also if too much heat you could heat treated it and make the metal softer.[addsig]
 
1049674

Well guys... After alot of WD40 and 2 torx bits, I got 6 out of 8 screws out. The other two stripped dangit! And they were the ones that I tried my first bit on, it said "Taiwan" on it, Imagine that... I went and bought one made in the good ol USA and it did the trick. I used the tapping with the hammer technique with WD40 since thats all I had to work with. I did use a breaker bar for more leverage too. The brackets are on and the lights installed. NOW my new question is... Where do I lead the wires into the inside? Do I have to drill a hole? if so where? For now I just have the wires hangin, I will wire it all up tomorrow. Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I was nearly going to give up. ~Joopin
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1049710

i drilled a hole in behind the door, above the strap that holds it. This way the wires run directly underneath the dash and the hole isn't totally exposed to the weather, which would in turn help keep rust away...[addsig]
 

1049729

Hey BBJ, I think I know what you are talking about but I'm not quite sure... Do you mean the wires go above the hinge and kind of shut in the door? then the hole is drilled on the side of the dash? Is there any way you can get a picture of it? If I do it that way then I guess the braided wire cover will either get shut in the door too or would have to stay on the outside of the door... thanks for your help[addsig]
 
1049730

I have a pair of KC Daylighters mounted in the same spot. I just drilled a hole through the lower half of the

hinge (and the body...). It comes out right behind the dash. Make the diameter the diameter of a two

conductor connector, thread it. Apply some anti-sieze compound to the threads of the connector, then once

it's seated, and the plug attached to the wires, silicone the hell out of it. I used black wire wrap (like used on

wire harnesses) because I have no chrome on my jeep. Other things may leak in the rain, but not that.



Cooper.



btw - it takes a long time and a sharp bit to get through that metal...[addsig]
 
1049774

Torx suck...



I made a point to replace all of them with hex heads - and it was not too expensive. If there is room, try a set of vise grips on the outside head while turning the torx bit. I have been able to get most of them out this way after a good soak with wd 40.



Once again, Torx suck...
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