Just an oppinion, (if it ain´t broke don´t fix it) and mostly gleaned from somebody else´s research. The I-6 motor, is mostly a mid range motor, nothing much to be gained, by helping it to rev. faster, into the higher RPM range. Even with an open exhaust, a motor runs stronger in different RPM bands, depending, on design, diameter, length of the collector. Matched sets, intake, flow, exhaust, tuned to work together, seems like the best approach.
Don´t really think, I´m gonna take the chance, of breaking off the exhaust/intake studs, unhook all that junk, try not to break any injector connectors and some other soft points. For a 7 or even 15% horsepower increase, that might make, my motor run lean (the motor killer) at certain RPM´s.
If the exhaust manifold (header) was cracked, I might be temped. Other than that, I´d probably stick with the flange at the front of the Cat and work the system towards the end. If I felt the need.
If I installed, a header and my plugs started to burn bone white, I´d think seriously, about removing it and/or figureing out a way to get some more fuel.
Some headers, are pulse scavenger types, the pulse helps remove, excess exhaust from the cylinder, allowing a little more room, for new air/ fuel mix ( more oxygen), while residual exhaust (in a slightly restricted system), slows down the burn some, allowing for slower combustion (more uniform heat/less chance of explosion). A lot of interelated events going on in there.
I started out, on carburated motors, a typical 14:1 air fuel mixture, makes me crindge. Used to be a sure formula for a blown motor. Works now on days, with computer controlled vehicles.
I´ve still got, a set of flange spacers, three hole flange inserts with different sized openings. 2", 2 1/4", 2 1/2", 3" etc., to be inserted between the collector and the exhaust cone. Also a set of collector extensions. Amazing what tuning, an exhaust, will do to the torque, at certain RPM bands and loads. Without even changing the header. Sometimes back pressure is a good thing.