Body work questions
- Thread starter Snitty
- Start date
I'd drop it. Not only for safety concerns, but for ease of access. You will need to get to the backside of your repair. Welding in a patch panel is only part of the work, and if you're an experienced welder it won't be the part that frustrates you the most.......trust me. All that crap in the way is just another thing to aggravate you.
88Wrangles
New member
I agree with Junkpile...but then again it really depends on what exactly you're doing, to determine how much room you'll need to work.
If you don't need a lot of room for what you're doing though, I'd probably just leave it (but that's just me). If the lines are real close, take some NON flamable material (like a spare welding glove) and place it over the lines to block sparks and heat. I've welded on frames and stuff RIGHT next to gas tanks and fuel lines before, and if I get worried at all, I simply put my hand between the flamable stuff and where you're welding.
If you don't need a lot of room for what you're doing though, I'd probably just leave it (but that's just me). If the lines are real close, take some NON flamable material (like a spare welding glove) and place it over the lines to block sparks and heat. I've welded on frames and stuff RIGHT next to gas tanks and fuel lines before, and if I get worried at all, I simply put my hand between the flamable stuff and where you're welding.
Snitty
New member
RE: Skyjacker Hard Top vs. Soft Top Lift Kit???
well its not the weld flash i'm worried about. I've known metal to catch fire many times while welding. and once I'm about finishing up the patch, I won't know what's going on behind the panel.
I was thinking about removing the license plate frame and stuffing something into there, fiberglass or something might do it. It is only thin metal though, I can get away with low heat and spot it around to keep down the danger of flames
well its not the weld flash i'm worried about. I've known metal to catch fire many times while welding. and once I'm about finishing up the patch, I won't know what's going on behind the panel.
I was thinking about removing the license plate frame and stuffing something into there, fiberglass or something might do it. It is only thin metal though, I can get away with low heat and spot it around to keep down the danger of flames
88Wrangles
New member
Help!! My Jeep Nightmare!!!
He means do either option #1, or option #2.
If you leave it in and drain it, you can also suck all the fumes out...if you have the equipement :wink:
He means do either option #1, or option #2.
If you leave it in and drain it, you can also suck all the fumes out...if you have the equipement :wink:
Snitty
New member
oh... I guess I read it wrong. No, definitely not filling it with water, I'll never get it all out. I might drop the tank. Sad part is, I have to find a place to do this. I wanted to pull the jeep up to my porch to do it so I have access to electricity. With no tank, I won't be able to make the moves to get it out of there
Inspector-Gadget
New member
RE: Re: lift & tires
Snitty,
I sure hope your sig pic doesn't turn out to be a prediction.
Viking funerals are picturesque, but should be reserved for the movies.
Remove the tank.
Regards,
'Fraid of fire, Gadget
Snitty,
I sure hope your sig pic doesn't turn out to be a prediction.
Viking funerals are picturesque, but should be reserved for the movies.
Remove the tank.
Regards,
'Fraid of fire, Gadget
TwistedCU
New member
RE: On the road again... (big pics)
X2
If you leave the tank in, I agree. a full tank is much safer than an empty one.
How close are the lines to what you are welding? Keeping the tank full and stuffing fiberglass in there seems perfectly reasonable to me unless the lines are touching the metal to be welded.
dingus said:
X2
If you leave the tank in, I agree. a full tank is much safer than an empty one.
How close are the lines to what you are welding? Keeping the tank full and stuffing fiberglass in there seems perfectly reasonable to me unless the lines are touching the metal to be welded.
redrooster
New member
Dropping the tank is easy, so there is no reason not to do it for peace of mind.
I can't believe that no one has mentioned putting aftermarket protective corners on there. You have to think outside the box. Knock the dent out the best you can and put some steel or aluminum protective corners on there. You can buy them in umpteen places in diamond tread or plain. I got mine done in smooth aluminum from a guy off of E-bay. Then polished then with my trademark swirls. They were probably just as cheap as the replacement panels and look good. It also kept me from folding in the rear corner when I bounced it off a tree 2 weeks ago.
I can't believe that no one has mentioned putting aftermarket protective corners on there. You have to think outside the box. Knock the dent out the best you can and put some steel or aluminum protective corners on there. You can buy them in umpteen places in diamond tread or plain. I got mine done in smooth aluminum from a guy off of E-bay. Then polished then with my trademark swirls. They were probably just as cheap as the replacement panels and look good. It also kept me from folding in the rear corner when I bounced it off a tree 2 weeks ago.
Snitty
New member
Well.. I did think of the corners that you speak of. They are not an option. I'm not repairing a dent... I'm repairing a rusted hole. There is nothing to which I will attach the corners. If I dont' fix it now, it will keep spreading and spreading. Also, it goes past just the corner there, it moves up the wheel well. I'm actually looking to replace a large section. There is the stupid "seat belt bolt compartment" that just holds salt and stuff inside that I'll be repairing, all along the lower edge of the fender and about 8" up the rear lower coner. This will be done on both sides. I also have some bad rust up front that I'll patch up for now, but later convert to my idea (years in the making) for my fenders. What exactly does it take to drop the tank?
RE: Trip to Pecos-- Muddin
:shock: dude.....you even considered leaving the tank in? You're hardcore Snitty :lol:
I bet you have some more problems under there too. What does the rear floor look like?
Dropping the tank isn't that bad with a YJ. It seems like I had a very hard time getting the tank in my 93 out the first time, but I can't remember why......
:shock: dude.....you even considered leaving the tank in? You're hardcore Snitty :lol:
I bet you have some more problems under there too. What does the rear floor look like?
Dropping the tank isn't that bad with a YJ. It seems like I had a very hard time getting the tank in my 93 out the first time, but I can't remember why......
Snitty
New member
RE: 3 YJ rear driveshafts
The only thing that might pose as a problem with my tank is rusted bolts. That is the only problem on any part of my Jeep.
The entire floor of the jeep is very solid. There are no problems with that, but you can be sure that when I move the tank, I'm going to be spraying undercoating down there for protective reasons.
I dont have a lot of gas, the tank should be relatively easy
The only thing that might pose as a problem with my tank is rusted bolts. That is the only problem on any part of my Jeep.
The entire floor of the jeep is very solid. There are no problems with that, but you can be sure that when I move the tank, I'm going to be spraying undercoating down there for protective reasons.
I dont have a lot of gas, the tank should be relatively easy
redrooster
New member
I haven't done a YJ, but the bolts on a CJ tank are pretty small (like 5/16" or something). They will break off easily if rusted, which is fine. I don't believe it uses a welded in nut like the rest of the mounts on a Jeep. Other than that, you have the wire for the gauge, one ground wire and several hoses to take loose and out she comes. Use a floor jack under it to jack it up against the body until you get the bolts out. Then you can lower it and remove the hoses from the top of the tank.
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