four link parts list and measuring for a new driveline?

Tyler Bates

New member
Does anybody have a parts list for what you would need for a 4 link in the rear? And how do you measure for a driveline?
 

thats a big list, and not every 4 link is the same.

you will need material for upper links, probably 1.5-.25 DOM
lower links and I would sleeve them or they will bend like a pretzel, 1.75-.120 ober 1.5-.25 DOM
you will need 4 joints of your likeing, I prefer Johnny Joints. you will need a rear truss, axle link mounts, lower link frame mount, upper frame mount, springs of some type, I assume your on a budget so coil springs, axle end coil buckets, frame coil mounts, new soft brake lines to transition from the frame to the link, then the link to the axle, probably need limit straps. You will have to address your gas tank if you stretching, also might have to rebuild the rear frame if you stretch it or you will be stupid high.

I have built plenty of these set ups, my best advise, build it at full compression, that way you know everything will fit.

Don't be overly concerned with a 4 link calculator, but some general rules I like to follow, upper link should be 70% of your lower, I like more vertical seperation at the axle than at the frame, get your lower axle mounts as wide on the axle as you can.
 
thats a big list, and not every 4 link is the same.

you will need material for upper links, probably 1.5-.25 DOM
lower links and I would sleeve them or they will bend like a pretzel, 1.75-.120 ober 1.5-.25 DOM
you will need 4 joints of your likeing, I prefer Johnny Joints. you will need a rear truss, axle link mounts, lower link frame mount, upper frame mount, springs of some type, I assume your on a budget so coil springs, axle end coil buckets, frame coil mounts, new soft brake lines to transition from the frame to the link, then the link to the axle, probably need limit straps. You will have to address your gas tank if you stretching, also might have to rebuild the rear frame if you stretch it or you will be stupid high.

I have built plenty of these set ups, my best advise, build it at full compression, that way you know everything will fit.



I appreciate your help and read what you wrote on my other post about stretching the wheel base. I have looked at several set-ups and for all the use I want I think a four link will be all I want and more it has grear articulation and handling also helps being stable so have less roll overs. I know it costs more than other set-ups but think in the end it will pay off and yes on a budget have four kids so have limited funds for my jeep, but suspension is my next step. I have just heard cj5s are bad about rolling over backwards on big hills, so thats why I wanted to stretch it. Do you know how I measure for a driveshaft when I do stretch my wheelbase?
 
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To 4 link properly, expect to spend about $1500-2000 per axle to do it right with air shocks at a minimum. if you go with coils, it will sit higher, but saves a couple hundred $$
 

To 4 link properly, expect to spend about $1500-2000 per axle to do it right with air shocks at a minimum. if you go with coils, it will sit higher, but saves a couple hundred $$

so how many heim or johnny joints will Ineed and what sizes
 
regardless of 4 link or 3 link, you will need 8 joints per axle. at a minimum I would run a 7/8" joint, and that is absolute minimum on a street vehcile.

I am currently collecting parts to link the front of my pick up, it's a daily driver that will probably never see the trail, these are the joints I am running 7/8 x 3/4 Rod End Set - RuffStuff Specialties

I will be swapping a 12V cummins into the truck in a couple years once emissions is up and I will most likely be upgrading all the joints due to the extra 400 pounds the cummins will add.

for a trail rig that will take abuse, I would run a 1.25 joint
 
Ok so 8 joints for just the rear then? And how do I
get the right measurements for my driveline once a do my link in the rear and stretch my wheelbase
 

you mean drive shaft? yoke to yoke at full compression and yoke to yoke at full droop. add a couple inches to the difference between the two numbers and that is how much slip shaft you will need. the average of those two numbers is the length of the shaft.
 
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