It's growing, it's growing
- Thread starter bryanjeep
- Start date
88Wrangles
New member
bryanjeep said:
Yes, same things.
It wouldn't be hard at all...except for maybe the 4 (or however many you want) link part.
Like this: (sorry for such a big pic):
prariepunk
Active member
ehh? Idon't wanna go that far. I'll stick with a SOA and 2" YJ springs, I WILL be removing the body lift!
redrooster
New member
Pop or soda?
Close, but no quite. Your are thinking of 1/4 elliptic springs where you cut aspring pack in half and use it upside down. Yes 1/4 eliptic does require a 4 link.
Buggy leaf springs are merely the top spring out of a spring pack, cut in half. You drill drill a hole in the spring and bolt it to the frame (or a piece of channel welded to the frame) upside down. The eye of that spring now becomes the mount for the upper shackle bolt like in the picture. You use your same springs you have now just like they are sitting except that they will get twice the droop because they buggy spring will drop down. The axle is still located under the Jeep because you are still using the "fixed" spring hanger at the other end.
It's really pretty simple and not at all hard to do. I would advise not using the u-bolt method in the above picture though. That just looks like it may come apart..
TwistedCopper said:
Close, but no quite. Your are thinking of 1/4 elliptic springs where you cut aspring pack in half and use it upside down. Yes 1/4 eliptic does require a 4 link.
Buggy leaf springs are merely the top spring out of a spring pack, cut in half. You drill drill a hole in the spring and bolt it to the frame (or a piece of channel welded to the frame) upside down. The eye of that spring now becomes the mount for the upper shackle bolt like in the picture. You use your same springs you have now just like they are sitting except that they will get twice the droop because they buggy spring will drop down. The axle is still located under the Jeep because you are still using the "fixed" spring hanger at the other end.
It's really pretty simple and not at all hard to do. I would advise not using the u-bolt method in the above picture though. That just looks like it may come apart..
redrooster
New member
RE: Pop or soda?
I'm not trying to sell the setup (not my line of work), it's just a fact of life when your Jeep grows up.
Well, I got the whole area running them a few years ago when I worked for a hydraulic shop. It's really about the only way you can turn those big tires. It does not utilize the box like a redneck ram or hydro assist. It is full hydraulic using an orbital valve like a tractor, the factory steering pump and a 2"x8" hydraulic cylinder. The valve alone runs about $275, the cylinder is another $75 and $40 or so for the adapter to put on your steering shaft. Then you have to get hoses made and weld the mounts for the valve and cylinder. It's definitley not cheap. I can have a guy put together a kit for you if you don't want to undertake the chore. If you think hydraulic assist will work for you, then do a search for Redneck Ram.bryanjeep said:
I'm not trying to sell the setup (not my line of work), it's just a fact of life when your Jeep grows up.
88Wrangles
New member
RE: Pop or soda?
Or just plain ol cross-over steering works very well. Still kind of spendy though if you buy all the stuff new.
Or just plain ol cross-over steering works very well. Still kind of spendy though if you buy all the stuff new.
redrooster
New member
RE: Pop or soda?
Cross over just means that you rearranged the tie rod and drag link to be on top of the spring. It still doesn't mean that the box or pump will have enough power to turn the tires. The pump will burn out and the box will start to fatigue (crack) the frame. It may work fine on the street, but when you get the tire pinned in a rut or against a rock or tree, it will not steer. I wish it would because that would save many people (including me) a pile of cash.88Wrangles said:
RE: denver mechanics
I have been doing the research on the full hydro steering. I like what I see, but not the price. If you could get me a package price, I will consider it. Thanks Red !!
As for the buggy spring setup, it still will not extend the WB. THat is what I am looking to do. Besides, if I got the rear with a buggy, the front would need it too. Do you recommend me getting the BTF rear axle kit and just buy new main eye holders for my current springs?
I have dumped enough money into my crap. I wish I hadn't, but there is no turning back now.
I have been doing the research on the full hydro steering. I like what I see, but not the price. If you could get me a package price, I will consider it. Thanks Red !!
As for the buggy spring setup, it still will not extend the WB. THat is what I am looking to do. Besides, if I got the rear with a buggy, the front would need it too. Do you recommend me getting the BTF rear axle kit and just buy new main eye holders for my current springs?
I have dumped enough money into my crap. I wish I hadn't, but there is no turning back now.
88Wrangles
New member
when it's up over the springs it is called hi-steer. And yes, that does no good, except to get it up outof harms way.
With all our big trucks around here we do cross-over, and you can turn the tires no matter how jammed up they are.
I've also got my frame boxed in and double plated by the steering box...It won't ever crack!!
With all our big trucks around here we do cross-over, and you can turn the tires no matter how jammed up they are.
I've also got my frame boxed in and double plated by the steering box...It won't ever crack!!
prariepunk
Active member
I like the High steer idea, and LOVE the Hydrolic steer! ! ! Got any pics of the set-up in your rig rooster?
redrooster
New member
RE: Re: RE: Redrooster rollover pics
BryanJeep wrote:
As for the buggy spring setup, it still will not extend the WB. THat is what I am looking to do. Besides, if I got the rear with a buggy, the front would need it too. Do you recommend me getting the BTF rear axle kit and just buy new main eye holders for my current springs?
You're right the buggy spring setup alone will not extend the wheelbase. To do that you will have to do coilovers, airshox, move all the mounts and brackets for your current springs & extend the frame or run offset centerpin springs from a Ford F150.
Never, ever, ever do a buggy spring in the front. If you are not shackle reversed the front end will raise up and get very light on hill climbs. If you are shackle reversed then application of the throttle will turn the pinion toward the ground and also scary when you hit the brakes in reverse.
You don't notice any ill effects of a buggy spring in the rear.
As for the hydraulic steering, I thought about selling the kits on E-bay. I decided that I didn't have the time to take on that project nor did I want the liability. There are some letigous people out there.
BryanJeep wrote:
As for the buggy spring setup, it still will not extend the WB. THat is what I am looking to do. Besides, if I got the rear with a buggy, the front would need it too. Do you recommend me getting the BTF rear axle kit and just buy new main eye holders for my current springs?
You're right the buggy spring setup alone will not extend the wheelbase. To do that you will have to do coilovers, airshox, move all the mounts and brackets for your current springs & extend the frame or run offset centerpin springs from a Ford F150.
Never, ever, ever do a buggy spring in the front. If you are not shackle reversed the front end will raise up and get very light on hill climbs. If you are shackle reversed then application of the throttle will turn the pinion toward the ground and also scary when you hit the brakes in reverse.
You don't notice any ill effects of a buggy spring in the rear.
As for the hydraulic steering, I thought about selling the kits on E-bay. I decided that I didn't have the time to take on that project nor did I want the liability. There are some letigous people out there.
