possiable sieze!!!! help me and give advice
- Thread starter sweetpeet
- Start date
sweetpeet
New member
what do you mean by "it ran but didn't have any power to it", would it drive?
also thats not as bad as running out of oil...you still had oil
88Wrangles
New member
Rebuild current motor or get another one. Those are pretty much your only options if you ran out of oil. Even if you get it to run, it won't last long at all.
glenn beck
New member
if you want to play for a learning exsperiance then i would drop the oil again and remove the big end bearings make sure you mark the caps and install them on the same cylinder and the same way round. if the bearings have defects like rougness or pits then the fun is over as the crank will need to be machined (yes i have tryed to get away with new bearings and thats a 100 mile learning curve)
if the bearings in the bottom look good then remove the valve cover and check for a stuck cam or stuck valve by rocking the motor back and forth and watching the lifters and springs.
if you got real lucky the top of the motor staved before the bottom and a guncked up valve jammed before total distruction. grinding sound is real bad but knocking sound tells you that its all over
in truth the engine is proberly going to need to be pulled and rebuilt which parts wise might not be that exspensive but the machine shop bill is going to hurt.
if you love grease blood and tears then junp into it and not only have fun but get the satisfaction that you did it yourself. a rebuild takes a few weeks waiting on parts and the machine shop who after measuring will tell you what parts you require then will want to wait for the parts so they can hon the rings to the block. where a engine swap takes a few days with less blood and tears and if you install something bigger and better then you get bragging rights to that.
if the bearings in the bottom look good then remove the valve cover and check for a stuck cam or stuck valve by rocking the motor back and forth and watching the lifters and springs.
if you got real lucky the top of the motor staved before the bottom and a guncked up valve jammed before total distruction. grinding sound is real bad but knocking sound tells you that its all over
in truth the engine is proberly going to need to be pulled and rebuilt which parts wise might not be that exspensive but the machine shop bill is going to hurt.
if you love grease blood and tears then junp into it and not only have fun but get the satisfaction that you did it yourself. a rebuild takes a few weeks waiting on parts and the machine shop who after measuring will tell you what parts you require then will want to wait for the parts so they can hon the rings to the block. where a engine swap takes a few days with less blood and tears and if you install something bigger and better then you get bragging rights to that.
Crazy4diesels
New member
No - Take out the spark plugs and squirt the Mystery oil in the spark plug holes. Use one of those pump-squirt type oil cans. Squirt in a good amount (like 20-30 squirts per cylinder, or more even) . Let it sit for a couple of days and then try to turn it by hand with a breaker bar with the spark plugs OUT. Leave the regular oil in the pan.
:bomb
id you ever find the leak? :bomb: As I said, the engine might be too far gone but it might be worth a try. Like others have said, though, it could very well be toast. The best luck I've had doing this was on a 1980 Chevy Citation (when the car was four years old). It had run out of oil and the lady tried to drive it home. It took a few days and a couple of shots of Mystery oil but I got it freed up. I ran that car for a couple of years and it ran great. That was a V 6 like about 230 CID. I did a Ford Escort, however, that freed up and ran but had absolutely NO power - it was shot. Best of luck - John
sweetpeet
New member
kinda, well we think we found it. thought it might have come from the front of the oil pan, but idk. we resealed the entire oil pan and replaced the oil filter and made sure it was tight. but the whole right side was covered with oil so it was impossible to tell where the oil came from.:bomb
do you know of any other places it may have come from? (o and the oil was only spread from the oil filter down and back on the right side)
Crazy4diesels
New member
To lose that much oil so fast I would guess you had two gaskets under the oil filter. When you took off the old one the gasket may have stuck to the engine. Then when you put on the new one (which has it's own new gasket) you ended up with two gaskets, one on top of the other. This is pretty common. To be sure, you could remove the filter and check carefully. Let us know what you find - John
carnuck
New member
Was there a crack in the side of the block? (did one of the rods hit it?) Was the filter your put on orange colored? Inquiring minds need a lobotomy! Why is it everyone seems to be on the far side of the country from me? I have a nice 360/T18a/NP208 (31 spline) for $800 here in Seattle.
face it man.........she is toast. time to cut bait and rebuild her. with all the time you have spent chasing ghosts you could have rebuilt it........twice. dont get me wrong we would all like to save a dime whenever possible....but i think it is time to throw in the towel and fix her the right way, without Band-Aids.
sweetpeet
New member
ok so I put the mystery oil in and now im gonna let it sit for 2 days. now how do i turn it by hand with a breaker bar?
sweetpeet
New member
no crack in the block and my filter is napa brand (gold)
Saddle Tramp
New member
Crazy4diesels
New member
That's a shame... Too far gone to short cut it. Yeah, time to rebuild or find an other engine. Best of luck - John
Saddle Tramp
New member
Some junk yards do a compression test on motors with lower miles when they pull them as they have better resale. Look around and see if you can find an AMC 360. You could be back on the road for $500 or less, including the flywheel if you get lucky.
sweetpeet
New member
do you know of any? maybe they also got a yard down in Georgia. that or i might have to make a trip.
Turbogus
Active member
Years ago I bought a '66 Econoline Bugeye van. You know, the ones so ugly they're kinda cute? Well I got it for real cheap as there was some knocking from the bottom end (crank). But the thing would fire right up turn key like, and didn't use any oil. With the three on the tree I could wind 'er up to 60 mph no sweat.
Well the time came I was going to address the knock and drove it from where I was living in Toledo, Oregon to a friend's who had a barn in Tangent, Oregon. When I arrived he wasn't home so I parked out in front of the barn to return the following week to start working on it.
The next week, I hop in, fire 'er up and back into the barn when all at once~the knocking stopped.
The van was still idling normally so I backed the rest of the way into the barn and shut 'er down.
Looking out the front windshield I noticed a part laying in a puddle of oil, with a trail of oil running back to the van.
I walked out to see what it was....................
THREE LOBES OF THE CAM HAD BROKEN OFF
Looking at the pan and I saw that the knocking wasn't the crank.....
it was this length of camshaft that was bouncing around in the pan the was making all that racket. The pan looked like that old 'Ball Park' franks commercial where the "plumps when you cook 'em" dishes out the saucepan.
After pulling a 170 out of an old Maveric I was considering getting a 'vanity' plate~TIMEX :lol:
baldjohnny
New member
Sounds like professional help is needed to check the motor or you find another one to replace it.
Please don't take offence, but you're not just kidding with people? on this would it be possiable to make it a v-6 and just get rid of that section or do i really need that combustion there to move the crank shaft?
but i stuck my finger up there and the piston head felt slick
Pardon my reply, but on a HD website a guy went on and on about JB Weld and stuff he was doing with it on his bike. Some of the stuff he wrote was pretty funny. Another member popped up with the conclusion he was screwing with everyone, and then his replies made sense. He called himself "Blue Balls", and the comments back/ forth were hilarious.
Please don't take offence, but you're not just kidding with people? on this would it be possiable to make it a v-6 and just get rid of that section or do i really need that combustion there to move the crank shaft?
but i stuck my finger up there and the piston head felt slick
Pardon my reply, but on a HD website a guy went on and on about JB Weld and stuff he was doing with it on his bike. Some of the stuff he wrote was pretty funny. Another member popped up with the conclusion he was screwing with everyone, and then his replies made sense. He called himself "Blue Balls", and the comments back/ forth were hilarious.
Sine Deviance
New member
I did that years ago to a GMC (put in an oil pressure gage after that).
When the engine cools down it may run for a while, but it's damaged. At very least you need new bearings, possibly crank turned as well. You also need the help of a trusted shop, mechanic, or knowledgeable friend. The issues here are too complex to cover in a forum.
When the engine cools down it may run for a while, but it's damaged. At very least you need new bearings, possibly crank turned as well. You also need the help of a trusted shop, mechanic, or knowledgeable friend. The issues here are too complex to cover in a forum.
