what are the do's and dont's of a timing job

Atlas said:
Oh yah
Another thing. You need to torque the cam bolt
When you get to tightening it your going to put the slack on the top side of the chain. Make sure you turn it slightly back so the slack is on the bottom side. Don't worry it won't effect anything but you want the top to be tight

How did you torque the cam down? Did it try to move with the ratchet or did it stay still?
 
Does it matter what stroke the engine is at or as long as the 2 dots line up? I picked up the cloyes timing kit and should be getting started friday
 
the lower part of the engine doesn;t care which stroke the crank is on, only the top half cares because if your cam is not set right, you will be firing your spark while the valves are open instead when they are almost closed so you won't make any power
 

The easiest way is pull number one plug, keeping your thumb over the opening have someone bump the motor till you feel pressure against your thumb, then with a large breaker bar turn the motor till TDC or zero marks line up on the timing pulley . Then your good to go on any motor.
 

Atlas said:
Don't move the cam or crank. Reinstall the set as you took it off

When the dots on the gears line up that means engine is at top dead center right?
 
it depends if its on the compression or exhaust stroke. that is why its good to do the thing where you put your thumb over the spark plug hole while you rotate the engine with a ratchet. if you are on the compression stroke, tdc, it will move your thumb off the hole with the air pressure. if you are on the exhaust stroke, it won;t move your thumb off the whole when the dots are lined up
 
superj said:
it depends if its on the compression or exhaust stroke. that is why its good to do the thing where you put your thumb over the spark plug hole while you rotate the engine with a ratchet. if you are on the compression stroke, tdc, it will move your thumb off the hole with the air pressure. if you are on the exhaust stroke, it won;t move your thumb off the whole when the dots are lined up

Ok well ill just to the whole compression thing I don't want to make any mistakes so ill take the extra step
 

no problem, just ask if you have any issues
 
So I was in the parts store today and was looking at the tool rentals cause I new I need a harmonic balancer puller. Then I saw some other once like cam clamp... Cam gear puller and another type of harmonic balancer puller made just for chrysler, my question is which harmonic balanced puller do I need and do I need those other tools?
 
The puller for the dampner is a must. While the rest aren't really necessary, they will make the job easier.
 

808CJ7 said:
The puller for the dampner is a must. While the rest aren't really necessary, they will make the job easier.

Do I just use the regular one with the center main bolt and 3 outer bolts or the specialized Chrysler puller?
 
I'll proubly just rent that one then. Will I need a puller for the cam gear or as soon as that's unbolted it will come right off?
 

I've never had to use a cam gear puller. They usually come right off. The most I've had to do was put a little tension on it with a screwdriver and give it a tap with a rubber mallet. Good job on covering your bases before taking on the project.
 
808CJ7 said:
I've never had to use a cam gear puller. They usually come right off. The most I've had to do was put a little tension on it with a screwdriver and give it a tap with a rubber mallet. Good job on covering your bases before taking on the project.

Ok I just want to make sure. I want to have all the tools there cause once I start I have to finish cause she's my only vehicle
 
luis said:
Ok I just want to make sure. I want to have all the tools there cause once I start I have to finish cause she's my only vehicle

Are you doing this as preventative maintenance, or is there a problem? How many miles on the engine?
 
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