What did you do to your Jeep today?


I installed Power steering to my 1994 jeep YJ WOW I forgot how nice it is to drive with PS. this was a huge pain in the but it was difficult to add the componets but the Fricken Hoses, I got the steering gear from Online used part and I was told it was off a 94 yj wrangler and it didn't come with any hoses just the pump the gear and bracket turned out I didn't need any of the bracket but when I went to buy the HP hose and return hose they were both wrong I had to return them 4x before getting the correct HP hose and then it was to short could find the correct length so I had one made 160.00 later for the hose yes one hose it is working but besides all that it was worth it.
 
i am laying out a plan to rearrange everything in front of the garage so i can test the engine and see if i need to do the head gaskets. if so, i will pull the head or heads and see if its the head gasket or the head, and then go from there.

hopefully, i will be able to follow the plan and have the jeep running by christmas. :0
 

scored a fiberglass windshield frame with glass & gauge bezels at a reasonable price.
 
Started to remove old windshield. Three drill bits later & a torch, got the hinges off. Need to remove the inside bolts. what a PIA.
Any suggestions on how to remove old paint from a fiberglass windshield frame & what kind of paint to use on fiberglass?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Stan
 

your best bet will probably be just to rough up the paint and paint over it. either that, or carefully sand it off by hand. i imagine any type of paint thinner will also soften the fiberglass
 
I agree with sanding and doing normal paint prep. They sell a 'flex' additive you can add to the paint but with a windshield frame I wouldn't bother, regular automotive paint should do fine.
 
today i finished pulling the body off the frame of my 1979 jeep cj7. I have a tub from a 83-84 cj7 i am thinking of replacing it with. Mine had a lot of rust repair needed. everything on this jeep is original. it appears the quadra trac was rebuilt because the case has orange form-a-gasket on it. dana 30 in the front with 3.54 gears according to plate and build data stamp on tube. Rear have not i.d'ed yet, trans is hydromatic th400 auto. Have to cut and replace the body mount blocks off the frame as they are all beat.. found a complete set at quadratec for $100. ( sorry if i am not suppose to mention companies in posts) gonna pick those up this week.. the trans had three vacuum tube that weren't hooked up but the hard pips were there. figure that went to the vacuum system for the passing gear and to change the gears.
 

Attachments

  • WP_20160502_007.jpg
    WP_20160502_007.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 111
  • WP_20160502_008.jpg
    WP_20160502_008.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 117

Just got my boat sides, installing them tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • image-2853737475.jpg
    image-2853737475.jpg
    347.8 KB · Views: 370
I did a little gardening with the Jeep. I had to drop it in 4 low, but that bush finally relented.

2016-05-07 12.38.21.jpg
 
Last edited:
Been doing a handful of the annual maintenance things as well as replace the rear upper shock mounts on my O6 TJ (who ever came up with that factory design should be castrated) When I finished up I did something I do fairly regularly, and wondered if anyone else does it: Since I generally end up removing my wheels a couple limes every year. Every 2-3 years I chase the threads on my Lug bolts and nuts with the factory spec tap and die. I regularly add a spot of antiseize to the bolts every time I pull the wheels, But with heat and time the graphite and petroleum lubricant does harden. So I just thread the die on the bolt Flat side first (not tapered unless the threads need to be recut due to serious damage) My die is hex shaped so I can use a socket and ratchet to run it down all the way and back off. spray the lug with a light oil after chasing it, to rinse off debris cut out of the threads and to protect the fresh steel that may be exposed from rusting. The nuts will be a more difficult issue, especially if you don't have a plug or bottoming tap as they are very easy to cross thread, so take your time with them. Again when done spray them out to remove the crud, asn spray the taps and die between the lugs and nuts. Add a smear of antiseize before running thee cleaned nuts down the lug bolts all the way and back them off and you are all set. Properly torques the wont loosen up, but they wont get stuck either. there is nothing worse than having to change a tire on the trail when you cant get it off the vehicle. This trick prevents that issue. And since we are on the subject. How many of you have knocked a tire off the rim while on the trail? all you need is a match and a can of starting fluid to put it on. Lay the tire while on the rim, flat on a non flammable surface such as bare dirt Spray some starting fluid into the tire's interior, and spray a fuse line over the tire's ( think road runner and the coyote) side wall from the interior over the bead and down the side on to the ground for a foot or so, do it fast so it doesnt dissipate. now throw a lit match at the "fuse line" of fluid. turn your back and cover your ears. When the ether in the tire ignites, it will generate a massive amount of air pressure momentarily, and seat the bead in place. BUT when it hits the rim, it will cause the rim to ring like a bell, and it will be very loud. Try this at home some time. keep the pets and kids clear, this is a free running generation of a high volume of hot air. Ive known and used this technique from the early seventies when I was dirt racing as a kid. Before you ask or comment, yes it can be dangerous, don't make a lake of ether in the tire,,, However once the tire seats the fire will smother itself right out due to the fact that it rapidly uses all the oxygen inside the tire. When the tire is seated on the rim, air back up. and you are good to go, but I's recommend a little more air this time, and make sure all four tires are at the same level.
 

Terry, id you yank bushes a lot make a choke piece out of steel cable (loop on one end hook on the other) OR use a small link high strength chain, the cable just loops once and goes through its one eye loop and hooks to the vehicle, the chain comes back from the vehicle wraps twice then comes around the standing length from the vehicle once and hooks back on itself making a self tightening loop. These don't give as much as the tow strap, and pull the bush bundle in tight on itself, making it easier to bull them as one bundle without cutting them down first, If they stop the jeep add the tow strap in between them and the Jeep for the stretch and snap multiplier effect. A trick I learned as a young man doing landscaping during the summers
 
Been doing a handful of the annual maintenance things as well as replace the rear upper shock mounts on my O6 TJ (who ever came up with that factory design should be castrated) When I finished up I did something I do fairly regularly, and wondered if anyone else does it: Since I generally end up removing my wheels a couple limes every year. Every 2-3 years I chase the threads on my Lug bolts and nuts with the factory spec tap and die. I regularly add a spot of antiseize to the bolts every time I pull the wheels, But with heat and time the graphite and petroleum lubricant does harden. So I just thread the die on the bolt Flat side first (not tapered unless the threads need to be recut due to serious damage) My die is hex shaped so I can use a socket and ratchet to run it down all the way and back off. spray the lug with a light oil after chasing it, to rinse off debris cut out of the threads and to protect the fresh steel that may be exposed from rusting. The nuts will be a more difficult issue, especially if you don't have a plug or bottoming tap as they are very easy to cross thread, so take your time with them. Again when done spray them out to remove the crud, asn spray the taps and die between the lugs and nuts. Add a smear of antiseize before running thee cleaned nuts down the lug bolts all the way and back them off and you are all set. Properly torques the wont loosen up, but they wont get stuck either. there is nothing worse than having to change a tire on the trail when you cant get it off the vehicle. This trick prevents that issue.


don't mess with those lugs. wire brush only, oil maybe. unless you have damaged the threads, then just replace them. vinn
 
Terry, id you yank bushes a lot make a choke piece out of steel cable (loop on one end hook on the other) OR use a small link high strength chain, the cable just loops once and goes through its one eye loop and hooks to the vehicle, the chain comes back from the vehicle wraps twice then comes around the standing length from the vehicle once and hooks back on itself making a self tightening loop. These don't give as much as the tow strap, and pull the bush bundle in tight on itself, making it easier to bull them as one bundle without cutting them down first, If they stop the jeep add the tow strap in between them and the Jeep for the stretch and snap multiplier effect. A trick I learned as a young man doing landscaping during the summers


Thanks for the tip Dragon. I'm not a fan of gardening, so hopefully that's the first and last time I'll be pulling plants.
 

Drove it work today and played on the rocks, it's good to be in construction.

 
so today Wife and I finished wire wheeling and flapper wheel sanding the entire frame. removed the axles from the frame and have the frame up on saw horses. We ordered this product called rust seal from KBS. got a kit that comes with wash , metal prep, and sealer. Works like por 15 they say, i'll let you know. Started to disassemble engine to check it out and see if i really need to rebuild it or just freshen up. Pulled upper intake and found lots or crud under area where the push rods come down through. I was thinking of pressure washing crap out of push rod intake area but not sure if it will hurt engine or not. I will probably be pulling heads too so I can check out pistons and lower bearings. Got the original paint color amc blue for the engine also to paint engine with once it's all cleaned up. Can't wait till this is all done... this is for the wife and she has yet to pick a color.... she likes 4 different ones.... tangerine twist, lapis blue, root-beer and and cinder red. Have to return the rear floor pans I got from classic to current fabrication as they do not have the same contour in the rear foot well area. the new outboard supports I bought matched exactly but the pans were like 3/8 inch short from touching them. can't have that flex in floor area so I'll be ordering some new ones from quadratec soon. They say they are identical to original we'll see.
 

Attachments

  • WP_20160528_002[1].jpg
    WP_20160528_002[1].jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 107
  • WP_20160528_001[1].jpg
    WP_20160528_001[1].jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 106
  • WP_20160528_004[1].jpg
    WP_20160528_004[1].jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 111
Back
Top