:???: Just purchase a 2000 TJ with a 4.0 that has the chip in the key. I have to cycle the ignition to get it to start almost every time, at least two or three times. The guy I got the JEEP from said it was the fuel pump allowing the fuel to run back into the tank. BUT, like I said, I have to cycle the key. If I just hold the key down, it will crank and crank but not start until I let off and hit it again. I didn't want to go give $300.00+ for a fuel pump and that not be what is wrong. Any ideas? Ohh, it is a rebuilt wreck.
TJ starting trouble
- Thread starter jpnyt
- Start date
Levinoss
New member
How old is the pump and have you had someone check the pressure on the lines?
SteelHeadz
Super Moderator
A good indication if the skim key is at fault would be the indicator lamps. Once the key is inserted and cycled to the run position, the skim module will wake up and communicate with the key for the pin code. If it comes back with the same code as what is stored in the module, the key indicator lamp on the instrument cluster will extinguish. If its the wrong code, the lamp will flash then stay on until the correct key is used. I would get the fuel pressure checked for a leak down issue. It likely to be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Welcome to Jeepz..
Thanks!!! It starts and runs, sometimes with just a very slite miss. I do not know how old the pump is. It was rebuilt from parts off other jeeps and I was told... of course, after I already purchased the jeep, that this guy known for piecing things together just to get them sold.
Levinoss
New member
Happen to want to die when you shift from Drive to Reverse or Reverse to Drive?
Levinoss
New member
Not a automatic gotcha!
I'm droppin my tank saturday to replace my pump so I'm kinda going through the same stuff as you. I'd go have the pressure checked and move from there.
I have the same issue with my '97 4.0 Wrangler, but does NOT have a chipped key; with help from a borrowed fuel pressure test gauge + posting here back n forth with fellow member, SteelHeadz, I traced it to a bad fuel pressure regulator (bleeding down, lines not holding pressure);
I found them on Ebay for $44.95 shipped, via Ebay; I should have mine today or Mon; (UPS has Saturdays off) $116 seems to be the "around here" price; Advance, dealer, dont matter. I also already put in a pump (only; not the whole thing) that cost me $125. (then found them on Ebay for ~$40-ish) my fuel gauge still works, the module is still in good shape, I did not see a need to spend the $$$$ on the assembly. At least my labor doing the job muyself, on my own vehicles is free! My new pump came in a Carter box with both strainers but the pump in the box was a Walbro. The pump body was slightly larger physically, but fit fine. Same thing going on; having to hit the key 2-3 times usually but once had to hit it 5X, before it started; once runnung runs GREAT. Mine sat 18 months, because I got hurt; and was under Dr's orders not to drive---- not at all for a while; but then I could drive; IF I had an auto transmission. so the Jeep sat in the garage, I started it every month-6 weeks while it sat, more often if I needed room to work on something in my garage; pulled out a few hours at a time, to sit in the driveway; then pulled right back in, when I was done with whatever I was doing.
But I now have a 16 yr old ready for his license; so it's time to get the "bugs" out so that he has a dependable ride.
See "long crank times" in the Performance section of this site; it's recent, only within a week old;
(unrelated to post; but be careful with chain saws; I damn near lost my right foot to a kickback, the reason my Jeep had to sit)
I found them on Ebay for $44.95 shipped, via Ebay; I should have mine today or Mon; (UPS has Saturdays off) $116 seems to be the "around here" price; Advance, dealer, dont matter. I also already put in a pump (only; not the whole thing) that cost me $125. (then found them on Ebay for ~$40-ish) my fuel gauge still works, the module is still in good shape, I did not see a need to spend the $$$$ on the assembly. At least my labor doing the job muyself, on my own vehicles is free! My new pump came in a Carter box with both strainers but the pump in the box was a Walbro. The pump body was slightly larger physically, but fit fine. Same thing going on; having to hit the key 2-3 times usually but once had to hit it 5X, before it started; once runnung runs GREAT. Mine sat 18 months, because I got hurt; and was under Dr's orders not to drive---- not at all for a while; but then I could drive; IF I had an auto transmission. so the Jeep sat in the garage, I started it every month-6 weeks while it sat, more often if I needed room to work on something in my garage; pulled out a few hours at a time, to sit in the driveway; then pulled right back in, when I was done with whatever I was doing.
But I now have a 16 yr old ready for his license; so it's time to get the "bugs" out so that he has a dependable ride.
See "long crank times" in the Performance section of this site; it's recent, only within a week old;
(unrelated to post; but be careful with chain saws; I damn near lost my right foot to a kickback, the reason my Jeep had to sit)
Got my new FP regulator/filter and put it in yesterday (Im gettin fairly quick at doing the tank drop)
and I put the gauge on the fuel rail; problem solved; it dont bleed down as soon as I shut the key off no more and it cranks right up like it used to; It seems to have regained a little "zip" too.
Bought from Ebay, $44.95 shipped; put Jeep fuel pressure regulator" in for your search there; go down to the "stores" listing; they have several. Beats the $116 that everyone around here wanted (dealer, Advance Auto, Car Quest, etc, didn't matter; ) Not only does that thing regulate pressure and keep the pressure from bleeding down in the line so fast (meaning you gotta crank and crank until you build pressure again) it is also the fuel filter.
Nice thing about the one I got?? It's even MADE IN USA!!!
Also would not be a bad idea to put a new pump in while you're at it; lots of 'em on Ebay for $40-60; I pd $125 for mine at a local parts store; (included both strainers) no sense replacing the whole assembly, that costs~$230 when you cah get a filter/regulatoir and a pump via Ebay for ~$100 unless your gas gauge isn't working!
and I put the gauge on the fuel rail; problem solved; it dont bleed down as soon as I shut the key off no more and it cranks right up like it used to; It seems to have regained a little "zip" too. Bought from Ebay, $44.95 shipped; put Jeep fuel pressure regulator" in for your search there; go down to the "stores" listing; they have several. Beats the $116 that everyone around here wanted (dealer, Advance Auto, Car Quest, etc, didn't matter; ) Not only does that thing regulate pressure and keep the pressure from bleeding down in the line so fast (meaning you gotta crank and crank until you build pressure again) it is also the fuel filter.
Nice thing about the one I got?? It's even MADE IN USA!!!
Also would not be a bad idea to put a new pump in while you're at it; lots of 'em on Ebay for $40-60; I pd $125 for mine at a local parts store; (included both strainers) no sense replacing the whole assembly, that costs~$230 when you cah get a filter/regulatoir and a pump via Ebay for ~$100 unless your gas gauge isn't working!
